^[1]

---

^[2]
[3] Tuesday morning 30^th. July 1776 -- between 7 & 8 -- left my D^rst-
mama to accompany Lord & L^y. Dartrey to Spa -- &c In y^e
coach. L^d & L^y D. M^r Dawson Lord D's son ( -- ab^t 17/ by his
first wife -- in the Coach -- Dined at Rochester were joind
by Master Penns & their ^x Tutor -- oldest age 16 youngest
14. -- Slept at Canterbury

x a young Clergyman of y^e. name of Foster

Sunday 4^th. August -- M^r. Foster

---

                                                         1        1^[4]
Dover. Thursday night 1^st. August 1776

My dearest Mama -- I write these few lines
to you from Dover where we are waiting for a fair
wind -- I wrote to Catherine from Canterbury where
we got safe on Tuesday eve^g.. We did not forget to
take an observation of the Moon in its Eclipse
its appearance I thought very extroadinary^[5]
& singular; not remembering ever to have seen
that redneʃs or blood color. We breakfasted this
Morn^g..^[6] at Canterbury & as I was y^e. only person in
company who had not seen the Cathedral, Lord &
& L^dy Dartrey, who are all goodneʃs & attention,
w^ld- not suffer me to go from Canterbury with-
out doing so, I was much pleased with this
Noble structure (very different from those I
had seen at Salisbury &St. Albans -- plain --
-- elegant -- vast in size, but I have not time
for particular discreptions -- we got to Dover
abt. 1 o'clock -- The corn fields were not
the least agreeable objects we paʃs'd, the
stalks loaded with golden grain, but yet
no appearance of Harvest -- the fields were
quite luxuriant -- the Hops also in their
most beautiful state.      At our arrival at
Dover met the celebrated & amiable M^rs:
Cartertranslator of Epictetus who came from Deal, where she resides
in Summer, (ab^t. 9 miles fr^m. hence) and Miʃs
*Cooper^[7] an Irish lady I believe you have heard me
mention was with her -- they remained w^th. us till
                                                         the
*married after to Mon^r. de Luc^[8]

---

2
2
Evening. The carriages were put on Board y^e Packet
but the Wind & Tide were against us. In the after-
noon went up the steep Hill to Dover Castle. 30
Acres of Land are inclosed within its walls; The
walls of the Square Tower of Julius Cæsar are stand-remain-
ing -- they told us itstheir preservation was of consequence
to the Curate of the Church for he is entitled to 30£
p^r. An. as long as they stand; there is a Round
Tower close to these walls w^ch. in the times of Julius
Cæsar had a set of Bells therefore they call it the
Belfrey. In the reign of Queen Anne, Admiral
Rooke, after obtaining a victory, desired permiʃsion
to remove the Bells to Portsmouth, where they
now are. There are 400 men on Garrison at Dover --
Castle -- the Barracks are neat and comfortable.
The Well which was sunk by order of Julius Cæsar
is 360 feet deep, it is enclosed within a building.
The Water is drawn up by a large Wheel turned by
6 men -- there is always 20 feet water in it --
there is a remarkable echo, I threw a pin in w^ch.
I distinctly heard, -- a stone thrown in when
it reaches the Water sounds like the report of a
Pistol -- the noise encreasing according to the weight
of what is thrown down -- it is bricked but a few
feet, the rest of the Well isis formed by a fine chalk
Cliff: They also shewed us an immense Cannon
                                                         w^ch.

---

                                                         3        3
they call Queen Elizabeth's pocket pistol. I for-
got to mention. that men have gone to the bottom
of the well without proving any inconvenience
from damp air. It was too late for us to see
the Governors apartments, we returned to the Inn
& spent the Eve^g most sociably and cheerfully --
the youths of our party are equally agreeable as
sensible.
ThursdayFriday^[9] Mor^g. Wind still contrary -- the Captain
says that is of no consequence but Lady Dartrey's
apprehensions and dread of Sickneʃs, from w^ch. she
suffers so severely, makes us young folk patient
notwithstanding our eagerneʃs to see what is to be
seen acroʃs the water. (Lord Pomfret with his
two Sons and Daughter, and a Tutor are here in their
way to Calais, they called on Lord & Ly. Dartrey this
Morn^g -- Lord P. is a fine handsome looking Man,
&, when he pleases, a fine Gentleman in manners.
We walk'd before dinner on the Pier head, saw several
Ships go out & come in, we drank tea in a large
Room built for the Pilots from whence there is
a grand view of the Sea. M^r. Dawson, M^r. Penn,
M^r. Granville Penn & their Tutor walked w^th. me to
Shakespeares Cliff we ascended to the top & spouted that
immortals bards fine description in King Lear: -- the pros-
pect of the Sea from hence is unbounded -- to look
down is tremendous.^[10]       It is now late& I must
conclude -- I am very impatient & anxiousmy dear
Mama to hear how you are. I embrace you tenderly
                             my beloved parent -- your
      dutiful child
                                                         Mary Hamilton

---

4
4        Lady Dartreys insertion
      ^[11] “I have the pleasure of aʃsuring you my Dearest
M^rs: Hamilton that your amiable Daughter is perfectly
well and in charming spirits -- except when a little
cloud comes over them at being absent from you;
we are here waiting for a fair wind & hope to be
able to Sail tomorrow. Lord Dartrey begs to presents his
Respects & joins me in repeating our many thanks to
you for entrusting us w^th. your Treasure, I will
take the greatest care of her and am My D^r. Madam
                             your faithful & most
                             Obliged Hum^ble. Servant
                                                         P: Dartrey”
Dover
1^st. August 1776

2^d. August 1776 Sunday abt. 9 in the Morn^g. left Dover
went on board the Packet (called the Mary -- belonging to
Cap^tn. Cosley) we were 5 hours getting to Calais the day very
fine, went to Deʃsiens celebrated Hotel^[12] -- he makes 111 beds --
it seemed strange that in the space of 5 hours every object should
appear so different -- the Buildings, language, dreʃs &c &c
before Dinner we went to y^e Convent of English nuns -- M^rs Grey
an English lady is the Abbeʃs -- she is stiled Reverend Mother --
w^ch it seems is not a title given to all Abbeʃs's of Convents -- we were
only admitted into the Parlour.^[13]

My Dearest Mama -- Since we left Calais it
has not been poʃsible for me to write to you -- I
hope you have rec^d the account of our little Voyage
I had no fears but was sick -- 'tis my Dear Mama w^th --
truth that I can aʃsure you I never was in better health
& the only thing that could add to my present enjoments would
be receiving a letter from you with good accounts.
2^d. August
Friday
      at Calais we went to the Convent of the
      Dominicaines -- an English Lady is the
Abbeʃs her name is Grey, she is lively and polite.
She shewed us some different works of the Nuns --
Lady Dartrey bought a purse w^ch. she gave me, from
the Dominicaines we went to the Chapel belonging
to the Capuchins -- there were only 6 men in it --
slept at Mon^r. Defseins -- L'Hotel D'Angleterre, it is
a spacious mansion & contains 111 beds, the floors
                                                         are

---

^[14]
▼

---

                                                         5        5
are dirty but the linnen is white & clean, and the
waiters are clever & attentive. The Town is not remark-
able for cleanlineʃs.
      Saturday the 3^d -- we left Calais^[15] changed Horses at
Ardres -- 12 miles -- (6 miles is called a post to Recourse^[16] 1 post to S^t. Omer's 2 posts) dined
at S^t.Omer's at the Hotel de Ville, the room we dined
in was 62 feet long & had 13 windows -- the wainscote
painted blue, ornamented with gilding, -- 5 noble cut glaʃs
Lustres -- a Portrait of Lewis the 15^th over one chimney
& that of the Dauphin over the other -- the side board
was large and consisted of dirty boards laid acroʃs
a frame. We went to the Cathedral and was charmed
bywith. a Picture painted by Rubens, the subject was the
descent from the Croʃs; -- there is a large Silver Tomb
in this Cathedral ornamented with Filagree work,
w^ch. contains the bones of S^t. Omer -- on one side
of this Tomb is a large silver Coffin in wch. are deposited
the remains of an Abbeʃs, on the other side another
Silver Coffin containing those of a Monk. The City of S^t-
Omer is one of the strongest fortified in french Flan-
ders -- the fortifications are of modern structure, it
is 19 miles from Calais, is a large trading place &
appears very populous -- it is the second City of
Artois -- there is a large plain building w^ch is an
English College.
August 1776 Sunday 4^th. After Breakfast we had prayers; &
then walked, we saw 3 shows in honor of y^e. Virgin
Mary in the Market place near w^ch. a Woman sang
Cantiques for above an hour, surrounded by a great con-
course of people.* We dined early & went on to Aire^[17] --
                                                         a la Poste, w^ch. isplaced

---

6 6
is two posts, or 12 miles, from S^t. Omer, Aire is also
a fortified town in the French Netherlands, the Country
is richly cultivated, and abundant in grain of all
kinds -- we saw in one Field, Wheat, Barley, Rye,
Flax, French-wheat, Carrots, Beet-root, Rape Seed,
French-beans and Tobacco -- the people are uncommonly
neat and clean & appear extremely industrious. We
went to L'Eglise de St Piere & heard Maʃs, then went
to the Convent of S^t. Clara -- the Nuns had not the same
air of happineʃs as the Seours Grises -- there are 25 English
Nuns, at first they conversed with us, without our seeing
them but on our expreʃsing a desire to do so 3 came
out to the gate, they informed us that they had the
privilege of appearing at the gate but not that of going
out of it, -- they are never allowed to eat anything but
Eggs & Milk, seldom Cheese, nor even at the door of
Death might they have animal food, they exist by
begging alms, and there are two Holy Fathers (as they
call them) who go about collecting for their support;
whilst they were talking to us -- one of these Fathers -- a Monk appeared to^[18]
watch them -- when we took leave he reminded us of y^e duty of his office -- viz
begging for their support.^[19]
from S^t. Clara went to the Convent of the Penitents, but
could only see their Chapel it being too late. The per-
son who shewed us the Chapel told us the sad history
of a Young Lady who was placed in this Convent of
Penitents contrary to her inclinations by her Parents
on account of an attachment she had to a young Man
her inferior / in fortune, after she had been confined
3 Months she found means to escape, but was dis-
covered before she had got far, she ran to the Chapel be-
longing to the Convent, w^ch. has a part priviledged, so
that in case any can get hold of the Rail, w^ch. surrounds y^e Altar, who has attempted to
                             escape, & is pursued, she is

---

^[20]
▼

---

                                                         7 7
is secure, & can never again be placed in the Convent, un-
leʃs she particularly desires it, this unfortunate Young
Woman -- (who our guide told us, was Jeune et belle à manger) ran
into the Chapel, and was within a few yards of y^e soldiers^[21]
when the Soldiers -- who are always there on guard -- caught
her & delivered her to the Abbeʃs -- who ordered her imme-
diately to be confined between 4 brick walls, she was
allowed a small portion of bread & a little water daily
in this state she existed 8 Months, continually pray-
ing to God for release from her sufferings: When her
lover heard she was dead he ran to the River and
drowned himʃself -- this happened only two years
ago -- the man could not inform us what became of
the young Ladys Parents. We sup't and slept at Aire
the beds good and every thing very clean; here we
have Hares, Partridges and all sorts of game as plenty as Fowls
Rabbits &c in England -- the Poultry is also good, plenty, and
cheap: Besides two courses well dreʃsed by excellent Cooks there
is always 7 or ten dishes at Desert consisting of various
fruits and Cakes -- the wines, the gentlemen say, are very
good -- Claret, Burgundy, Vin de Greve, &. No Port wine nor
Beer. The magnificence of the Churches strike me ex-
tremely. We shall reach not Aix la Chapelle so soon as was
at first intended as Lord Dartrey wishes me to see every
picture worth looking at. I should my dearest Mama
write more particularly & accquaint you w^th. every occur-
ence, but Lord Dartrey has made some gentle remonstran
ces against Lady Dartrey & I spending too much time
in scribbling letters, & when we settle for the Eve^g. he likes
to play at Domino or some round game, likewise, as the
post goes out at uncertain times at y^e. places we stop at, it
      is impoʃsible for me to send letters as regularly as I
                             wish -- Adieu Adieu My Dearest Mama
                                                         Mary Hamilton

---

8
My D^r. Mama -- I was sorry to hear of the Death of
Lord Cathcart -- I had just before been told he was going
to marry again which I should have wondered at, as he
was so terribly afflicted on losing my Aunt, who had
proved herself an exemplary wife and careful Mother,
& that he was arrived at an age when the paʃsion of
Love one should imagine could not master the sober
dictates of prudence, &c.       I mentioned to you that
Lord Bute's M^r. Jenkinson was here, he tells me that
he lately met my Uncle Sir W^m- & Lady Hamilton at
Geneva & that they were going to Paris on the very
preʃsing invitation of Lord Stormont -- it seems that
my young Cousin is rather difficult to please &
manage, & does not conduct herself quite so
amiably as Lord Stormont wishes; -- it is a great
pity Lord Cathcart required his Daughter to marry
a Man so much older and whom the world, in Paris,
say she evidently dislikes. M^r J. says L^y. S: will
not comply properly with y^e. Etiquettes required as
Lady to the English Ambaʃsador -- it is to be hoped
that Lady Hamilton will prevail on her to alter
her conduct. M^r. Jenkinson also says it is my Uncle Wil-
liam's intention to be in London the first week in
September -- this will afford you great pleasure as
Lady Hamilton has so sincere an affection for you,
as well as my Uncle -- I hope you will go to them as
soon as poʃsible, & pray aʃsure them of my unalterable
affection & that I shall feel impatient to embrace
                                                         them. -- I think^[22]

---

                                                         1 8 9
Dearest Mama
      I was made extremely happy by the letter I rec^d.
from you. Not to lose time I will continue my journal
^[23] Monday 5^th.
august 1776
      Went to Lilliers where we breakfasted --
      changed Horses at Bethune -- Lord Dartrey said
the woman of the Inn was very imposing & every thing very
dear. -- post -- changed Horses at la Waquet a single house
The people were particularly civil -- the House looked like an
good clean English Farm house, and we had farmers
fare Bacon & Eggs w^ch. we enjoyed much and were very
Merry, over broiling & cooking ourselves -- I do not
think the Domestics were quite so well satisfied
as we were, though there was plenty of good Bacon
fresh eggs, & sweet bread, to eat. The weather was
very hot -- but not so for Lord Dartrey -- we were all
gasping -- We changed Horses again at Lisle w^ch. is
a large city strongly fortified -- though there is much
worth seeing our curiosity must lie dormant, till
we are on our return to England when Lord Dartrey
intends stopping for a day or two. We were struck
with the number of windmills near Lisle Lady
Dartrey & I counted 200 at least -- changed Horses
at Menin -- post -- Lord Dartrey was here obliged
for every set of 4 horses to pay for 6 -- the profit
they say goes partly to the King. -- one Postilion drives
4 horses (they never use more) with long traces, faster, than two pos-
tilions with 6 horses, at least so I was told.
In paʃsing through a Village we saw almost at --
every door women spinning Cotton, they were very
neatly dreʃsed & all wore wooden shoes. We got
                                                         to

---

10
9
to Courtray at 8 o'clock -- half an hour before the gates
are shut -- we went to the Hotel Damier every thing
perfectly clean, the Supper was served on Pewter as
bright as silver -- Lord Dartrey paid only 5 escalins
(2^s: 11^d English) per head) we had 2 fine Fowls,
a larded Hare, 6 Quails, a dish of sweet-
breads -- Veal à la Mode, hot, Stewed Peas --
French beans D^o. and 7 dishes at desert --
Tarts -- and 7 dishes of fruit &c. for desert. --
The Beds were excellent and the people
extremely civil. The dreʃs continues the same as at
Calais, I do not recollect that I described it. The
Maid Servant and the common people of the Town is
a short Casaquin,^[24] or jacket, made of very coarse stuff, y^e-
color not material -- the peticoats remarkable short
the Stockings white & clean and Slippers, w^ch. only cover
the toes, without hind quarters & a heel rather high &
stout. The caps are all of the same form, made of
white linnen, Cambric, Lawn or Muslin, with a
double border of the same plaited uncommonly
small & neat, this cap is close to the face, all the
hair is concealed except on the forehead, w^ch. is combed
flat to the head and powdered -- these do not wear any
Ribbon, but white bobbin drawn round y^e. head fastens the cap, no woman
is without gold earings, they have single drops, and a
Croʃs of gold hangs on their bosoms, these that can
afford it have 3 drops to their earings and a large gold
Croʃs embelished with rose diamonds; the poorest creature
who has scarcely clothes to shelterprotect her from the weather
has gold earings and a Croʃs: Stays are not worn -- the
                                                         jacket is made high
                                                         &

---

                                                         3 10
conceals the bosom &neck, yet they wear a small white
Neck-kerchief -- the White Caps, &c; give an air of clean-
lineʃs to  --- which I am sorry to say the same rank of peo-
ple in England have not, -- Women of all conditions
(particularly when they go to maʃs) wear long Hoods, they
are of various colours -- chiefly light brown, the Hood
shades the face and the cloke entirely disguises the
figure -- the poorest rank wear a long square piece of black
stuff; silk, serge, &c &c which they throw over their
Heads & serves to cover the head &, body. I have
not seen a Hat. The Linnen here is remarka
bly white, not very fine, and so stifly starched
as to scratch ones legs in bed.
Tuesday the 6^th.
August 1776
Courtray
      We saw L'Eglise Collegiate, over y^e.
      Great Altar is a capital picture of y^e.
      declaration of the Croʃs by Vandyke, it is
placed between the Windows therefore has not a good
light. There is another picture by Crayer, of the Virgin
Mary & the Trinity: from L Eglise we went to the
Chanoineʃses, saw a fine picture, painted by Jourdains,
of the Nativity, the Channoineʃse was polite and
shewed me a private Chapel. Lord Dartrey could
not procure a sufficient number of Horses so early as
he wished, and proposed by way of amusement that
we should dine at a Table D'Hote at our Hotel, w^ch.
we did -- our company consisted of two Priests, a
Dutchman, who talked as much as he eat, & was
equally impertinent as vulgar, a well bred genteel
looking Man who spoke good french, and 6 ill
dreʃsed strange looking people -- for 2 Escalins,
(14^d. English) a head we had as good a dinner as
                                                         what L^d: D: beal-

---

4 11
always pays 5 Escalins a head for; -- the rooms are
floored with Bricks. Soon after we got onto Cour-
tray there was an awful storm of Thunder, light
ning & torrents of rain. We left Courtray soon
after Dinner, changed horses at Vive S^t Cloy, also
at Betghent, and arrived at Gand or Ghent at
5 o'Clock, we went to L'Hotel S^t. Sebastian on
the Place de Parade -- the Landlords name Buʃso, y^e-
Hotel is very large -- excellent beds, good Waiters,
and M^r. Buʃso himself remarkably attentive -- Brick floors
in the bed-rooms w^ch. were covered with Old fine
Tapestry in a sad ragged state -- large glaʃs Lustres
hanging from the Ceiling, & miserable shabby fire
places -- like those in a poor house in England. --
There was a most elegant dinner for us at 6 escalins
a head -- 2 courses, -- the Desert very handsome with Ices
&c &c.       The Supper was 5 Escalins a head -- fine
Wines, good bread, -- only, the Butter indifferent --
In this Country you have always Napkins and
Silver forks & spoons, but they dont change the Knives.
      Lord Pomfret and children were here, he was ill &
not able to quit his room -- Lady Dartrey took Lady
Charlotte Fermor & her Governeʃs (M^rs: Southern,)
with us to the abbey of S^t. Piere. The Salle a man-
ger is a magnificent Room -- 300 feet long -- the Ceiling
painted by Simon (on linnen) who is living at
Bruʃsels -- they told us it was painted in 47 days --
the sides of the Room are covered with beautiful
Landscapes -- painted by an artist named Artois --
It was near the time for the Abbe's dinner, and
                                                         the

---

      Ghent                                              5 12
Tables were ready. Over the doors in the Library were
exquisite paintings by Girard in Clair Obscur -- he
resides at Antwerp -- this room is 97 feet long. The
Abbe de S^t. Piere is Comte de Flanders; there are
32 Abbies -- The Chapel or Church annexed to it is very
elegant and very rich -- and kept in the nicest order --
the Altar is solid silver as are the Candlestick w^ch.
are above 6 feet high. The Stalls for the Singers are
of Oak carved curiously each of w^ch. cost 1000 Florins
(or       English) We saw the fine Vestments and
ornaments worn by the Priests, The Point and Bruʃs-
els lace was most superb and beautiful -- The whole
amazingly rich & costly -- we saw very fine Tapestry, and
many relicks made precious by ornaments of jewels &c
there are many pictures -- we were only particularly struck
by 2 near y^e. Altar^[25] -- Tobit by G Crayer^[26], and our Saviour crucified by Janʃsins.
We then went to the Cathedral of S^t. Bavon where is a
fine picture by Reubens the subject of w^ch. is disputed --
some affirm it is S^t. Bavon giving up his treasures to
the Church -- others that it is the Emperor Charles y^e-
5^th. giving up the Crown to his Son^[27] : the Altar Candle-
sticks, an immense size, of Copper richly ornamented,
they were brought from York, the arms of England, are finely
engraved on them -- they were purchased by a Bishop
of Ghent: here is a fine Monument by Jerome
du Qucesnoy. From the Cathedral went to the Church
of the Recollects -- Three fine Pictures by Reubens --
Over the great Altar is represented Christ going to
punish the World -- the Virgin at his feet, as interceding --
and S^t. Francis below her in an humble affecting
attitude of supplication. Over another Altar S^t. Francis;
                                                         & on a third a

---

6 13
a dying Magdalen
August 7^th- 1776
Ghent
      Lady Charlotte Fermor &c went with
      us to see a private cabinet of pictures
      belonging to an Abbé and were gratified
by the sight of a large collection of flemish pictures
highly finished -- two Lord Dartrey admired much by
Meijers one Bachus and Nymphs, the other a family, &c
From the Abbés we went to see a Collection w^ch. is to be
sold -- many fine pictures -- by Reubens, Vandyck --
Carlo Maratti &c &c.       After Tea a Savoyard played
/before the Windows/ extremely well.
Thursday
8^th-
      Left Ghent early changed Horses at Quatrect^[28] --
      dined at Alost^[29] at Les Trois Rois. Saw the
Church of S^t. Martin saw another capital picture, by
Reubens, of S^t. Rock^[30] interceading during a Plague.
and in the Church of the Carmelites a picture over y^e-
altar by G. Crayer -- the Virgin with the degrees of the
altar from the Pope to the Monk.
      We got to Bruʃsels in the Eve^g. we had a good deal of
Rain w^ch_ was quite refreshing after the almost intoler-
able dust and heat. Lodged at the Hotel D'Angleterre
at our entrance into Bruʃsels the Carriages were
surrounded by men called Valet de Place, they are only
Servants during a strangers residence, to conduct them
to the Churches &c. &c. Lord Dartrey hired one, his
Name S^r. Philip -- he is very attentive & civil -- he says
he has a Wife & ten Children who are extremely in-
dustrious. The Room we sit in is 45 feet long. --
Friday 9^th. Aug^st.
Bruʃsels
      We went to see M^r. Varrulst's Cabinet
      of pictures -- This gentleman has not been
out of his house 25 years but he has great pleasure
                                                         in

---

                                                         7 14
in sharing his pictures, particularly to strangers, he rec^d. us
in his study, he is well bred, the dreʃs we saw him in, (& w^ch.
I believe he always wears,) was a fine India Chintz Robe
de Chambre, -- a Cambric night cap bound round with a
striped border of chintz -- Slippers, & fine Bruʃsels point
Ruffles, & upon one of his little fingers a large brilliant
Diamond ring of great value -- he has a large fortune, and
we saw a number of man Servants in superb liveries w^ch.
denoted it -- as far as appearance goes. M^r. Varrulst shewd
us 4 rooms & a closét cram̄ed with highly finished
Flemish & Dutch pictures -- there was one by R --- ubens
which M^r. V values as the best he ever painted; From
M^r- Varrulst's we proceeded to Charles Prince of
Lorraine's Court, which is magnificient & in good taste,
(as far as I have experience to judge) the first room
we entered was hung with Tapestry wrought in a
superiour stile from designs by Rubens -- between
each window were looking Glaʃses from y^e Ceiling to
to the Ground; the Cornice & Ceiling beautiful; ano-
ther Room was wainscoated with the wood of Nut-
Tree brought from Turkey, ornamented in a light
yet rich manner with Copper gilt. We were shewn
many curious pieces of mechanism, Clocks &c. &c. &c.
there was a long narrow Gallery filled with very mean
pictures -- a Salle á Manger (a large Room) also full
of pictures, some good. Prince Charles has two
Millions of Florins per annum; he has also a
Noble Summer Palace. We saw him drive past us
in an open Carriage -- he is a large, bloated, plain
looking Man -- he drinks two bottles of Burgundy every
day at dinner -- each bottle twice the size of English
quart ones. -- besides liquers &c. From the Court we went
                                                         to

---

8 15
to see the Arsenaly Arsenal where there is a quantity of curious Armour
amongst that of others we particularly noticed, was that of
Charles the 5^th- and Mountezuma's -- the workmanship of
the first was admirable -- that of poor Montezuma's was
made of Indian Reeds and other similar materials. --
From the Arsenal we went to the Capuchins -- over the
great Altar a Picture by Rubens', of Christ dead on the knees
of the Virgin Mary a very affecting and beautiful picture,
the Magdalaine's figure and countenance is very lovely.
Almost (The works of Rubens, Vandyck, G. de Crayer, &c.
are chiefly monopolized by the Churches in Flanders &
in them you will find their find their best productions)
The Capuchin who shewed us the Church took us to the
Sacristi & shewed us a picture of Christ & Mary his
Mother by Atto Verrius; and a fine Ivory Crucifix
by Quernoy -- and two pictures by Vandyck, the one
S^t. Anthony, the other S^t. Francis. It is not
poʃsible for me, My dearest Mama, to mention
all the pictures, Sculptures, Relicks, Architecture
&c. &c. &c. w^ch. are worthy notice in the Churches &
other places -- for besides my want of judgment, we
see things too rapidly for perfect recollection. Lord
Pomfret & suite came here (in his way to Antwerp)
quite recovered. The weather is fine -- we looked
at Lace and Silk Stockings w^ch. are dear & to be purchased
as cheap in London. The best society here is elegant.
My Hair was well dreʃsed by the Princeʃs's Hair dreʃser, not so
extravagantly large as in London -- the fashions very here in
the same manner, Some of the Ladies have their heads well
loaded. We saw elegant small hats composed of Blond's --
foils flowers &c. so small that but a small portion of hair
is covered -- they do not wear any other to walk abroad in,
                                                         they

---

                                                         9 16
they leave the face exposed, & are made w^th. open wires behind to
turn up to the crown of the head, or let down to appear round,
some of these hats have extravagantly high feathers waving
on the top. These Hats we saw at one of the first milleners
they were for Ladies of quality.
Saturday
10^th. August
      Left Bruʃsels at 8 oClock, dined at Maline or
      Mechlin -- saw some Churches -- arrived in
Antwerp in the Afternoon. L'Hotel d'Angleterre;
went to the Church of the Recollects -- from thence to that of
the Augustines -- from there to Notre Dame called the
Cathedral^[31] -- the Tower beautiful Gothic 466 feet high.
The great Altar entirely of Marble very superb, The Statue
of S^t. Paul finely executed on the top, all his at the
expence of Capello y[^e] Bishop of Antwerp -- I shall make
a list of pictures &c  ------  the memorandum of our
party & my own and what we markd in in the book --
Then to the Dominicaines &c. I had a bad Sick headach
                             w^ch- kept me at home part of y^e way &c
Sunday 11^th
August
Antwerp
      M^r. Foster read prayers -- after which some of
      our party went again to the Cathedral -- then to
      M^r. Lonty an Historical Painter, & 2 others --
after dinner went to S^t. Andre -- opposite to y^e Chapel
of the Saint Sacrament there is an Epitaph to the
Memory of Mary Queen of Scots with her Portrait
over it, the head is beautiful -- on the North Side a
picture by Vandyck of our Saviour & the Virgin Mary --
The Valet de Place Lord Dartrey hired here is a very
intelligent Man & could give an acc^t. of every Picture
&c in a clear manner -- his name, de Bois. The City
of Antwerp is the Capital of the Marquisate of the same
name in the Netherlands, w^th. a Citadel reckon'd y^e. strongest
in the Low Countrys -- the City is built in form of a Crescent
on the River -- it was esteemed 200 years ago y^e. greatest
Trading port in Europe -- but the traffic is removed to
Amsterdam & other Towns in Holland -- In the after-
noon we saw the private collection of the Chanoine

---

10 17
Chanoine Knyffe, -- & the Abbé de Saint Michel
where we saw some capital Pictures by Rubens, Vandycke,
& other eminent painters -- the apartments weare very
spacious & commanded an extensive view of the River --
Here the Royal family are lodged, & we were shewn
some boards burnt, on w^ch. it is said, the King of
France & Charles the 1^st. of England burnt some pa-
pers of consequence. Antwerp is subject to y^e. house
of Austria
Monday
12^th August
1776
      Left Antwerp at 11 -- din'd at Mecklin -- (or Malines)
      at a pretty good Inn called la Grue -- saw y^e-
      Cathedral saw no Pictures to rival those at
Antwerp -- went to L'Eglise of S^t. Jean where is a fine
Picture of the Adoration of the Maji by Rubens --
We drank tea & slept at Bruʃsels to w^ch place we re-
turn'd from Antwerp in our way to Aix la Chapelle
Tuesday
13^th August
      Saw the Jesuists Church, College &c. &c. it
      was melancholy to see a place so deserted --
all the Vestments of the Priests & ab^t. 2000 pictures to
be sold -- they told us the pictures were chiefly copies &
a few good originals -- many were sad daubs -- We then
went to the Abbé de Colbert -- S^t. Jacques de Couden-
berg -- he rec^d. us w^th. great politeneʃs, shewed us his
private apartments & his Chapel -- saw two beautiful
sketches by Vandycke, -- he also shewed us a drawing of
the Abbey & Church & apartments w^ch. are going to be
built upon a noble & extensive scale; to be enabled
to complete this, they intend selling some valuable
Pictures -- we saw a Madona & Child by Vandyck -- and
3 Pictures by Rubens for -- w^ch. said 3 Pictures they ask
four thousand Guineas -- The Abbé de Coudenberg is
a jolly well looking Man, appears ab^t. 60 -- There was
an Old Abbé with him who very politely invited us
to go to his House in the Country, on our return from
Spa to see some curious paintings -- flowers &c.
Bruʃsels is Capital of Brabant & all the Austrian --
Netherlands on the Senne -- & Residence of y^e. Vice Roy.
Prince Charles of Lorraine, & subject to Austria --
                                                         The

---

                                                         11 18
The Road for some Miles from Antwerp near Bruʃsels
is charming -- one side thickly planted w^th. Trees, on the
other a fine clear River & a broad good road on each side
the Pavé
Tuesday
13^th. August
1776
      Left Bruʃsels at 12, the road beautiful be-
      tween B: & Louvain, 3 & sometimes 4 rows of
      Trees on each side of the Road -- no hedge rows --
we saw 3 wheels on w^ch. some malefactors had been executed
these were in a field near y^e. public road -- the land is cul-
tivated close to the trees planted on the sides of y^e. Road --
The Harvest is begun, they cut the corn w^th a short Scythe &
hold it down with a Stick in the left hand, women la-
bour as well as Men. We saw them reap Poppies in y^e-
same manner as the Corn -- they have long narrow --
Carriages drawn sometimes by 4 sometimes 5 horses
3 of them abreast -- on there Vehicles they load a vast
quantity. Women & children wear wooden Shoes, few
have stockings -- Beggars are numerous on The Road &
the Doors of Inns -- we dined at Louvaine (at the
Ville de Cologne) -- every thing good & well dreʃsed --
excellent Beds, very clean, & the people very attentive.
The State House at Louvaine is esteemed a most
beautiful Gothic Building -- tis in good preservation,
we all admired it much. At the Chapel of the Con-
vent of Les Dames Blanches we saw a fine Picture
by Rubens -- the adoration of the Maji -- at the large
Church of S^t. Piere we saw some exquisite carving
in Oak, -- walked to the Eglise Dominicaines,
belonging to Women & Convent, heard Vespers -- was not
charmed either by the voices of playing of the Nuns
& their Organ was a bad one. Saw S^t. Augustins
Church -- a fine picture by Crayer -- a Monk gave
a book of Miracles -- Louvaine is not a clean nor
agreeable Town.
Wednesday
14^th. August
      At 7 in the Morning left Louvaine, changed
      Horses at Tirlemont -- a large Town, with
3 old Churches -- w^ch. Lord Dartrey did not think, worth --
                                                         while stopping
                                                         to

---

12 19
to look at; changed Horses again at S^t. Trond, and of
Tongres where we dined at La Poste -- they made Lord
Dartrey pay extravagantly for a very bad dinner --
The weather was exceʃsively hot w^ch. did not agree w^th-
dear Lady Dartrey & we got to Maistretch in y^e. afternoon
a very large Inn, every thing clean, good Beds, well attended,
the Landlord remarkably civil, The Inn called the Moulinn.
Lord Dartrey found the charge reasonable for an elegant
Supper & Desert. At the entrance of the Town there is a
strict search -- we were stop'd by the Burreau^[32] (or Custom-
house officer) & asked more questions than usual, for
at every great Town travellers are stop'd at the Gates, asked
who they are & whether they have any thing sujet au
droit de sa Majesté, & where they are going, but as we
were going to Aix la Chappelle as travellers & not
Merchants were permitted to paʃs without the Trunks
being opened -- The officer who examined us appeared
to be an Ensign about 13 or 14 & short of that age, the
Burreaus at some other Towns did not appear of equal
Dignity as they always asked Lord Dartrey for some --
money for Drink. Maestritch is a well built Town,
large & clean, it is situated on the River Maes, it
is garrison'd by the Dutch who have y^e. civil govern-
ment of that part called the Town w^ch. is 4 miles in
circuit, & strongly & curiously fortified -- there are
3 Dutch Churches -- none for Roman Catholics, -- Lord
Dartrey did not stay to see any thing here. This City
(by y^e. acc^t.. published,) was taken by the Dutch from y^e-
Spaniadrds in 1632, & retaken by the French by Louis
the 14^th., in person, in 1673, who restored it again to
the Dutch by the Peace of Nemigen in 1679,^[33] & has
since continued in their poʃseʃsion.
                                                         this far
Thursday
15 August
1776
      Left Maestritch after breakfast, a tolerable
      road but no Pavé or rows of Trees -- N.B. the
Road from Calais to near M: is paved y^e. same as y^e.
Streets in London, & on each side of y^e. pavement, w^ch. is
broad, is a Road equal to our best turnpike roads in
England -- (In Winter or rainy Weather they drive on the
pavement. The Postilions wear enormous boots, they
                                                         are

---

                                                         20
are made of Iron covered with leather -- when I first saw
a number of these Boots standing upright in the Inn-
yard at Calais & the Postilions just before they were to
mount their Horses, thrusting their legs in w^th. shoes on
their feet, I could hardly refrain laughing -- & we were
all amused at y^e. Novel sight of Postilions with long
grises dangling down their backs & Cocked 3 Cornered
Hats -- they use short hadndle whips with long lashes,
w^ch. are thick near the handle w^ch. they dexterously crack
several times w^th. considerable noise when they set off or arrive at
an Inn; but to return to the Boots w^ch. are more useful
than laughable as they are calculated to save a limb
from being fractured in case of a fall on the paved road.)
Lord Dartrey stop'd at a small Village, w^th. his usual
humanity, to rest the horses -- I can't recollect the
name of the Village -- we had Cold meat & good Boullie^[34]
on w^ch. made an excellent meal -- The Road from this
place to Aix la Chapelle is hilly & y^e. country on are wooded -- (The
roads in Flanders being flat it appeared ridicoulous to
us to observe the slow snail-like pace of y^e. Postilions
if they met with y^e. least, almost imperceptible, rise
of ground.) The road near Aix is bad -- the surrounding
country beautiful. About 5 we arrived at the
Aix la Chapelle Great Hotel kept by De Bigh where Lord & L^y Dartrey
found a very handsome suit of apartments ready
to receive them & their party, viz: a very large dining
Room w^th. painted hangings, but I have not time to
stop to describe y^e. rest, only I must say that I
am lodged in a room I feel ashamed to occupy as
it is y^e. best & largest, but D^r. L^d. & L^y. D—— would
have it so -- it is next to y^e. dining room, very large & hung w^th. painted
hangings. We found M^rs. XBoughton & two of her
Daughters were lodged in this Hotel -- they have been
ab^t. 10 days at Aix la Chapelle -- they drank tea w^th-
us -- after w^ch. Lady Dartrey felt herself stout enough to
walk with all our party & M^rs. & Miʃs Boughton's to see
the Baths w^ch. are oposite to this Hotel, & to the Emperor's
                                                         Baths
X Bed chamber woman to the Queen. L^d. Lyttleton's Delia, see his sonnets

---

21
      Baths which are at a greater distance -- we lodge near
the Pump, Ball room, & walks -- I did not go out as I
wished my Dearest Mama to continue my journal
to you -- The weather very Sultry.
      Aix la Chapelle is soveregign State of Germany & an
Imperial City -- large not handsome. The Emperor
Charlemagne was the discoverer of the hot spring --
The Baths are large, handsome & convenient, they
say they are particularly beneficial to those who
are afflicted by Palsey or Scurvy, the water is so
strongly impregnated with Sulphur, that I smell it
when I open my bed-Room Windows, tho' the Baths
are in a Back Court on the opposite side of the way
or street. -- The water at the Emperors Baths are so
hot as require sipping -- they are not so much
drunk as the water from the Pump near y^e Hotel
w^ch. are cooler.
Friday 16^th
August 1776
Aix la Chapelle
      During some hours in the Night there
      was an awful Storm of Thunder, Rain
      Lightning & Hail, you know I am not
particularly affected by Thunder but the lightning
flash'd so terribly on me in Bed that I got up, &
thought over those lines of M^rs. Carter's, w^ch. Lord Napier
sent me, w^ch. you will see in her little Book of poems,
she wrote them during a storm (I think) to a friend --
they begin,“ ------------------ Let coward guilt w^th pallid fear” -- &c.^[35]
      I went w^th: Lord Dartrey to y^e. Pump, this Morn^g, and
drank two glaʃses of water -- the rest of y^e. day was
chiefly filled up by walking about the Town -- M^rs. &
Miʃs Boughton's drank tea with us. M^r. Jenkinson
the friend (& formerly Secretary) of Lord Bute, paid Lord
Dartrey a visit in the Eve^g. I have heard he wais a
Man of superior political abilities -- but his man-
ner, voice and countenance are by no means prepoʃ
sing -- he is tall, thin, & most ungainly & awkward.
there is however great shrewdneʃs in his eyes when
                                                         they are

---

                                                         22
not squeezed up by laughing, w^ch. he does often, & in no very
harmonious tones.
Saturday
17^th. August
Aix la Chapelle
1776
      We got up early, went to y^e. Pump -- people
      take Magnesia & Sulphur at night when they
      intend drinking the water in y^e. next Morn^g. --
Walked on the Parade made acquaintance w^th-
Sir John & Lady Webb -- (she has an elegant figure & is
very handsome -- Fine dark brown hair w^ch. grows well
on her forehead -- face oval -- Nose rather Acquiline, eyes
well cut, dark hazelle -- fine eye-brows -- good teeth &c &c)
-- also with a polite old French Gentleman who we hear is a
Man of consequence & very rich -- his Daughter just gone
to Spa -- ^[36]After Dinner we walked to a Convent in a
Village or little Town called Bourchet^[37] -- about a Mile
from Aix la C—— it is calld an Abbaye founded by y^e.
Emperor's Otho 2^d. & 3^d & Henrys 2 & 3^d -- The Ladies
are Noble -- Madame Platenburgh who, obligingly,
shewed us the Chapel, has the air of a person of
high fashion and appears amiable -- there is an
Abbeʃs and, only, ten Ladies -- they have leave of
absence once a year to visit their distant Relations, &
they have liberty to pay visits in the Town & receive com-
pany: each have 4 Rooms. w^ch appeared but shabbily
furnished, & each a Garden with paltry pictures &
Prints, & the walls white wash'd, they live on their
own fortunes, each have a Maid Servant -- or, what we
stile, a Ladys Maid -- A Table & every thing requisite
for their Board is provided for them free cost --
They have lately built a large handsome Chapel -- w^ch. is
just completed. There is a hot spring in this Town
w^ch. boils an Egg in 3 Minutes -- it smells strong of
Sulphur.

---

23

---

                                                         24
                                                         Aix la Chapelle
I left off my journal on the 16^th. of August^[38] -- on Saturday
the 17^th- walked in the Morning on the Esplanade met
Sir John & Lady Webb -- they are English and Roman
Catholics -- he looks likes a little french Hair Dreʃser,
he can tell the history of every one here if you chose
to ask him, they say he has a very large Estate in
England and is shabby & pernicious, chiefly residing on
the Continent -- Lady Webb is his 3^d. Wife, he married
her when she was little more than 13 -- she was a Miʃs
Salvin of York -- she is handsome, has delicate
health, and looks very unhappy. Met also Mon^r.
Bartin a pleasant old Frenchman, a very rich --
Finnancier -- he is Uncle to Madame Monboisier, he
intends to visit England next year Winter. M^rs.
Boughton -- (a Bed chamber woman to the Queen) and
her Eldest, and youngest daughter (Jane) went with us
after dinner to Bourchet, a Village about a Mile from
Aix la Chapelle to see an Abbaye founded by the
Emperors Otto &c. there are only ten Ladies inclu-
ding the Abbeʃs -- they are all Noble; Madame Platen-
burg who shewed us the Chapel &c. is remarkably
well bred & polite, each of the Ladies have 4
Rooms a Garden & Maid Servant, they are allowed
to visit their Relations & friends, they have also
a very ample table kept for them. Madame Platen-
burgh enquired much after Lady Effingham: She
made us promise to pay her another visit; in one
                                                         of the rooms
                                                         She

---

25
she shewed us there were two Gentlemen drinking
tea, they joined us, & one of them attended us to the
boiling Well -- The water is of that degree of heat as to
boil an Egg in 3 minutes; We return'd home to tea,
and then went to the Aʃsembly, w^ch, is next door to
this Hotel, there were but few people, & as Lady
Dartrey and myself were to Bathe at 8 o'Clock we
came away so early that Cards were not begun --
We made acquaintance with a Marquise de la
Bedoyere a handsome interesting woman, and
a M^rs Nugent, & another Lady of this place, they
were very civil. I found the Bathing very agree-
ablye, and the attendants and accomodations excel-
lent.
Sunday the 18^th- I drank the proper quantity of
water, 3 glaʃses, before breakfast, one is not al-
lowed to breakfast till an hour after y^e. last Glaʃs,
Lord Dartrey calls me up every Morning at 6 o'Clock, walked
to the Emperor's Bathes met M^r. Jenkinson, (who
honors me by much notice) he is certainly a very
clever man but not an agreeable one to suit my taste).
The Boughton's, Mon^r. Butin &c -- After breakfast
M^r. Foster (the young Gentleman's Tutor) read pray-
ers, very well, and gave me a good Sermon. In
the afternoon M^rs. & the Miʃs Boughton's drank tea w^th-
us. M^rs. B left us early & was so gracious as to let her
Daughters remain w^th. us, we spent the Eve^g very
cheerfully. 19^th: Monday Spent the Morn^g most comfortably
with D^r. L^d. & Lady Dartrey -- the Young men & their
                                                         Tutor

---

                                                         26
otherwise engaged -- I bathed at 1 o'Clock afterwards had my
hair dreʃsed by a celebrated performer on heads of this
Town. After dinner some good humoured acquaintance Mon^r
Butin came to laugh & Goʃsip till 7 when we all went to
the Ball, I danced with M^r. Dawson -- a French Count
& two other gentlemen asked me to dance w^th: them but
I did not change my partner -- One of the gentlemen was
a queer looking mortal -- I did not enquire who he
was -- we danced English Country Dances, and were 8
couple -- Mon^r. Butin gave tea to all our party, he
lamented that his lameneʃs prevented his opening
the Ball with me -- These little parties are in my op-
inion a thousand time more cheerful than a fine
Ball or great aʃsembly. The Marquise De La Bedoyer
danced with Lord Dartrey. Le Marquis her Husband was there, a
genteel handsome young Man. We got home at 10 o'Clock,
Small Blond Hats, & quantities of Feathers, worn
on one side of the head is the general fashion here, it
is both smart & elegant. Tuesday 20^th. The wea-
ther too bad to walk much -- In the Eve^g. Lord D——
amused us by teaching us Taro -- he held the Bank,
& we wasere as interested about our fourth part of farthings
as if they were Guineas. Wednesday 21 walk'd w^th-
Lord & Lady Dartrey to pay visits, see shops, and
the Needle Manufacturing w^ch. is very curious -- we
dined early, after which, I went w^th. M^r Dawson the
2 Penn's & M^r.. Foster to the Summit of a Mountain
it was difficult for me to climb, but I was rewarded for
my labour by seeing a beautiful & extensive view
of the country. -- on the top of the Mountain saw many
foʃsil shells -- and great variety of aromatic herbs
                                                         which

---

27
perfumed the air. In the Eve^g we all went tot he
aʃsembly for an hour. Thursday 22 Went with Lord
& Lady D—— to pay a visit to the amiable Marquise
de la Bedoyere -- hired some French Books at the Book
Sellers. -- saw the Market place and la Grand Place where
their is a Noble State House or Maison de Ville; in
the Middle of la Grand place is a large beautiful fountain^[39]
-- we have seen in every (I think) Town we have gone
through remarkable Pumps and Fountains. We
dined early & went afterwards with the Boughton's &
La Marquise to the Cathedral, the most ancient
building of the kind we have yet seen, there are not
any paintings, but there are great store of Relics, --
L'Archi Pretre Davis showed us every thing worthy
observation -- bquantities of celebrated Relics, Bones
of Charlemangne, &c. &c. &c. inclosed in gold cases &
studdied with diamonds, pearls,onyx, &c. &c. a
very fine Onyx of an uncommon size, a Cameo of
the Emperor Otho & his wives heads; The Em-
peror Charlemagne is buried in this Cathedral
he has no Monument -- a large square pavement
marks where he was buried: In one of y^e Chapels
there is a Pulpit of Maʃsy gold enriched with pre-
cious stones & gems -- one Onyx measures more
than half a foot: L'Archi Pretre shewed us the
Crowns that the Infanta Isabella presented to y^e-
Virgin Mary & the young Saviour for them to wear
on high days -- they are of gold, ornamented with
fine diamond & pearls & their form is beautiful,
                                                         she

---

                                                         28
she likewise presented the Vestments w^ch. are Sattin
finely embroidered with color'd flowers, and quantities
of White Lillies in small pearls -- the border is almost
grounded with small pearls, diamonds and large
pearls. There are hangings for the whole Chair &c, &c,
the gift of some Bishop (I 'dont just now recollect
his name) they are of Crimson Velvet embroidered
with pearls & gold. We noticed the Stone Chair of
Charlemagne on w^ch. all the Emperors are seated when
they are crowned, near it are two fine Verd antique
pillars and two of beautiful Granite. Over the great
Altar is the Escutcheon of Lewis the 13 & 14^th- of France, as
soon as Lewis the 15^th was burried they sent his to
be placed under L: the 14^th. -- In this Choir is the
Tomb of the German Emperor Otho. & at the end a small Organ.
The Marquise de la B: returned with us to tea, we then
went to the AgreeablyRooms, as there was not any Music, the
Marquis de la Bedoyere very good naturedly offer'd to
send for his Violin that we might dance, but this
was stop'd by his being aʃsured there would be a
Procés commenced against him next day, for in-
fringing the rights of the Band of Musicians, who
were paid by the gentlemen, what made this appear
ridiculous was that the Musicians were not in
the Aʃsembly rooms was because they thought there
would not be Gentlemen enough to pay them; as
there was no dancing we went into one of the Card
Rooms w^ch. had no party in it -- but our own & were
amused by the agreeable Marquise teaching us some
french recreations -- similar to Blind Man's Buff &c &c

---

29
      ^[40]My Dear Madam
                             I have beg'd Miʃs Hamilton to a --- 
me to add a Postcript to her Letter, & now she has done so, I almost
scruple making use of her Permiʃsion, because it takes up y^e:
Paper She would otherwise fill. & I know what it must be to
you to receive her Letters. I shall therefore in as few words as
poʃsible beg you to be aʃsured how sensibly I feel my obligations
to you for y^e: Treasure you intrust me with = She is the most
delightful Companion I ever travelled with, & I really hope, she
will return to you not the worse for this little Excursion -- She is
I thank God quite well, both the Waters & Bathing seem to agree
with her -- Lord D & I are charmed with her, & I aʃsure you She is much
admired, but I am a very careful Chaperone. Adieu ma trés chere Mad^me:
nous parlons Francais du matin jusqua'u Soir, mi Lord vous
presente ses baisemains -- & permettez que Je vous offre mes
dRespects & toute la reconnaisance, qui vous est dit, de la part
                             de votre Servante Obbeeis^t & tres hum^ble
                                                         P Dartrey
a thousand Thanks for y^e goodneʃs to my Child.)

There is a Taro-table in the rooms and 3 desperate
Gamesters hold the Bank -- it is very painful to
observe the agitation of those who play, both men
& women.

Aix la Chapelle
Friday 23^d. August
1776
      After Breakfast I walkd with Lord
      & Lady Dartrey to a Church upon
      a Hill near the Town, from whence
there is a charming prospect, a poor Woman who re-
sides in a Cottage near the Church brought us chairs
and without our asking her went & milked her
Cow, whilst we were sitting & waiting for the milk, we saw a
poor young woman with a sick infant in her arms, two
children followed her, one held a Rosary and a bottle
of holy water, and the other two Candles, they went
into the Cottage & came out again with the Candles
lighted -- they then went to the Church door, the young
                                                         woman w^th-

---

                                                         30
an expreʃsive countenance of deep affliction mad a sign
to us to follow her, which we did and to our great sur-
prise found a place filled with Straw & Wheat like
a granaryBarn, w^ch. we got through with some difficulty
at the end of this Barn without any partition was
a Chapel filled with Crucifixes and wretched daubs
of pictures -- on one side lay an image of Christ, as
dead -- dreʃsed in mourning, & the Virgin & Two Saints
stood behind him, also in Mourning, -- there was
an Altar, a Pulpit, Confeʃsional chair &c. decorated
in as miserable a manner as the Images; the
Ceiling was a Hay loft, filled. The poor young
Woman placed her Candles on each side of y^e. figure
of Christ, & then knelt down with the Sick Child
in her arms -- her two other children knelt on each
side of her -- they were silent but appeared to offer
up prayers with a devotion that was truly affecting,
Such a scene is not easily described, but I feel that it will
not, easily, be effaced from my memory. We went
through the Chapel and discovered the ruins of
Some Gothic architecture -- & an open arched Vault
with a large Stone Tomb. We gave the young Woman
something and left her with very fervant wishes
that her prayers might be granted.      I bathed at
one,. We dined early and walked to Bourchet where
we drank tea at a small House called L'Ceriviʃse
here there are Baths & Vapeur Baths hotter than
those at Aix. We went to see a Garden belonging
to a M^r: Kounan, a Needle Merchant, there are in
this Garden upwards of 30 figures some as large
                                                         as

---

31
as life, of Men & Women, they are composed of
Shell work, finished in a stile you could hardly ima
gine -- notwithstanding Dear Mama your own skill
and taste in Shell work -- we went into a large Grotto where
some Officers were regaling with M^r. Kounan, the
inside was entirely covered with beautiful Shell-work
of fruits, flowers and other ornaments, in shells,
there were figures likewise, the drapery of these
were so well executed as to appear at a short dis-
tance like painting -- it is said £30,00 has been expended
in this place -- M^r. K must be a rich Man for
Aix la Chapelle. NB. I do not admire the needle --
Merchants taste -- I dare say he is a Dutch Man. --
Saturday 24^th.
Lady Dartrey & I had a comfortable tete à tète
all Morn^g, she did not wish to go out. We drank
tea drank tea in great form at M^rs. Boughtons w^ch. gave
me the fidgets most terribly. -- Miʃs Boughton's came
to us in the Eve^g. they all sat down to Commerce
& I went to my room to scribble till supper time
Sunday 25^th. We had prayers early and M^r- Foster
read an excellent Sermon: afterwards I went with
Lord & Lady Dartrey in a Coach through the prin-
ciplal streets of the Town to see the preparations
w^ch. are making for a great Spectacle, viz: the
Reception of one of the Students of a College of
Louvain. There is one chosen every year out
                                                         of

---

                                                         32
of 4 Colledges and 6000 Students who has y^e. greatest
Merit -- the young man who is going to receive these
marks of honor is 18, and has distinguished him-
self worthy of the prize in several branches of
learning particularly philosophy -- he is to enter
Aix this day in triumph, & will be received w^th-
every demonstration of joy as it is his native
place -- there has not been one in this City who
has been worthy of this prize honor 140 years,
and then it was adjudged to one of his family.
The Streets through w^ch. he is to paʃs are decorated with young trees stuck
in the ground 4 feet aʃsunder, -- fine Shrubs are
put out at most of the WindowsDoors, in pots, tubs &c
We drove through 26 triumphal Arches, every
one different, some with coloured & white
Egg-shells beautifully & simply entermixt w^th-
Ever-greens -- others equally pretty with flowers,
paintings -- Ribbons, & Feathers &c. -- The young
Man's name, Josephus Widlt, is embroidered upon
Coloured flags with inscriptions of his abilities &c,
others with tin Silvered &c -- there are hundreds of
colored lamps prepared -- in short every thing y^t.
can look most gay -- As were w ------ ere paʃsing his Fa-
thers House Lord Dartrey ordered the carriage to
stop that we might look at its decorations, &
seeing some Servants at the Door, he call'd one and
sent a handsome meʃsage (in all our names) of con-
gratulations on an event w^ch. must be sensibly felt
by Parents -- (was not this amiable in L^d. Dartrey?
                                                         but

---

33
a heart benevolent and overflowing with the milk
of human kindneʃs like his is always on the alert.)
The family were at dinner but the Mother & Sister came
out, and invited us to be at their house at 4 o'Clock, that
we might be better able to see the proceʃsion, afterwards
join in the cavalcade, & be 2 thus 1 able 3 to see the whole.
He is to go to the Cathedral where Te Deum is to be finely
performed, after that to ride through all y^e. Streets & go to the Hotel de Ville, where y^e-
Burge Maester, & Towns People are to make him a speech
in Latin, after which there will be a magnificent
Supper: every Town he paʃses through from Louvain
make him a present, Prince Charles of Lorrain a
considerable one -- I believe I heard £2,000; and
he would take place of any Prince, Duke &c. if there
was one in the town, on this day -- Prince Ch^s. of Lorrain
gives him the upper hand. A Silver Basin & Ewer
are likewise given to him at the Town House. The Father
of this young Man is a Merchant worth £6,000, he is
esteemed a worthy respectable character. The Bells
ringing and guns firing in every part of the Town. I
dreʃsed myself as gay & fine as I could, so did every
one, and at ½ past 3 I went in a Coach with our favorite
Marquise & Lord Dartrey -- (Lady Dartrey had a cold
& did not like to venture out) again) and the young
Gentleman & M^r. Foster in another, we got to the
Fathers House through an innumerable crowd,
there, there were aʃsembled, Uncles, Cousins, &c;
The Mother appears a plain sensible Woman
& who seemed to support her happineʃs with the
                                                         great --

---

                                                         34
greatest propriety -- the Proceʃsion arrived at last, it was
a long one -- the young Man is handsome and has a charm-
ing countenance full of sense and sweetneʃs, he rode a
White Horse -- had an air of Modesty, bowed and
smiled gracefully and waved a Branch of Laurel, they
had put into his hand -- we followed the proceʃsion to
the Cathedral and returned home, in a quarter of an
hour had the pleasure of kiʃsing our hands to him
as he paʃsed our windows in Calvalade, as before,
the whole Town is illuminated; Balls & feasting
will continue some days; the Marquise supped w^th-
us.
Monday
26 August
      Walking Bathing &c. in y^e. Morn^g -- dined
      early -- All our party went to tea at the
Marquis de La Bedoyere's Lodgings, he gave us a very
pretty Concert, he played, well, himself on the Violin --
and Lady Dartrey treated us with some of her sweet
songs; the M: & Marquise return'd with us to supper
We rec^d. a polite meʃsage from the Primus (the
young Student is so stiled) to envite us to the great
Ball at the Jesuists' College -- we all went after
making some alteration in our dreʃs -- we drove through
a great concourse of people, every Tree had a Lamp
stuck in it w^ch. with all the other decorations had a
beautiful effect -- there was a fine Ball, I danced
with the Marquis who is a fine dancer and as I
felt more acquainted with him I declined other
partners to the number of 8. I had the honor of
dancing a Cottilion^[41] with the Primus who preʃsed
hard that I would stay the entertainment that was
to follow the Ball -- the Marquise offered to be my
                                                         chaperon if

---

35
if I chose to remain, I prefer̄'d returning home w^th-
Lady Dartrey; we left the Ball at ½ past ten, a
late hour at Aix la Chapelle. The Marquis and
his Lady supped with us and very merry we
all were.
Tuesday 27^th.
August 1776
Aix la Chapelle
      In reply to M^r.. Glover's question pray inform
      him that I have enquired, & am told that
      the Flemish Farmers never let their
Lands lie fallow but sew them succeʃsively w^th. different
kinds of Grain, & pulse, as best suits the Ground which
they occasionally aʃsist by manure of w^ch. I observed they
were very sparing. To continue my journal --
Lord Dartrey & I walked about the Town all Morning --
L^y.- D—— being a little indisposed did not wish to go out, we went
to the Jesuits College where the Ball was yesterday to
see some pictures -- found they were only indifferent Copies --
from good & bad originals -- went to the Hotel de Ville
or State House w^ch. is a large building w^th. some large
Showy Rooms in w^ch. were Pictures not worth looking at,
There was however a large Picture by Rubens -- y^e subject --
The last judg-ment -- it is in wretched condition --
Another said to be by Vandyck -- Representing the
Emperor Charlemagne giving the Charter to y^e. Magis-
strates of Aix la Chapelle -- In the great Room is an
interesting Picture, but not well painted, of all
the persons aʃsembled at the Congreʃs w^ch. was held at
the Peace in the year 1748 when Lord Sandwich was
the English Minister -- there are likewise single
Portraits of each Ambaʃsador at that time of the
different Nations employ'd, they are badly painted --
when we returned to the Hotel found a polite
sensible, agreeable Man in conversation w^th L^y Dartrey
he is the Polish Ambaʃsador at Rome -- he paid
the visit as having lodgings in the same Hotel --
-- now in London or England this would not be thought
leʃs than impertinent -- but as y^e saying is, different Countries
different Customs.

---

                                                         36
27 August 1776
M^r. Lovel Stanhope, is here in his way fr^m. Spa to Paris,
Lord Dartrey invited him to dinner -- his conversation
was entertaining & interesting -- he related many anec-
dotes of the celebrated Wortley Montague -- This singular
eccentric charactedr was at Aix la Chapelle with
Lord Sandwich at the time of the Congreʃs: -- The Germans
could not find time for relaxation & expreʃs'd great
surprise that L^d- Sandwich & M^r. Montagu always
got their busineʃs forward yet did not appear to pay
proper attention to it, for Lord Sandwich spent his
Mornings at Cricket -- & in the Eve^g. M^r. Montague held
a Farro Bank^[42] -- however M^r. Lovel Stanhope said
they did not neglect their duty, & aʃsured us that
he had seen 3 Copies of the articles written fair by
M^r Montague during that time, a task w^ch. would
have every Moment of any other persons time to have
accomplished in the time. M^r. Lovel Stanhope told
us he knew it for fact that as soon at M^r.. Montague
hadrec^d- information of his Legal Wife's death -- he sent
Advertisements to be put in the London Newspapers -- for
a Woman big with Child w^ch. he would marry -- he
wanting to disappoint the next heirs, &c. &c, he
also immediately proposed to set out for England w^ch-
coming to the Knowledge of his head wife (for as a Maho-
Metan in had several wives) she gave him Poison w^ch-
caused his death -- there was no truth in other reports
circulated, such as his having been choked by a Bone, &c^[43]
There was nothing M^r. Montagu's spirit dared not attempt
& he had genius to accomplish every thing he did attempt.
M^r. Lovel Stanhope related the following anecdote
There was a Dutch Merchant resident at Venice who
had a beautiful & amiable Wife -- M^r.. Montague admired
the Merchants Lady and got introduced to the Husband
to whom he made himself particularly agreeable, & a
great intimacy soon took place -- he then took every opportu-
nity to make love to the Lady, she was truly attached
to her husband who in return loved her w^th y^e. truest
                                                         affection, she

---

37
she therefore had reason to apprehend the most fatal conse-
quence w^d- insue should the infamous treachery of this
insidious friend be discovered, & suffered y^e. most cruel
Martrydom -- this continued for a long time -- Montague
finding her proof against all his wiles changed his
plan & became respectful, distant, & reserved -- the
Lady flattered herself that he was grown weary of perse-
cuting her & ashamed of the part he had been acting -- &
rejoiced that she had had the prudence to conceal his
Conduct from her Husband whose partiallity, and
unbounded confidence in Montagu was without bounds.
Some affairs required the Merchants personal attendance
in Holland & it was not convenient for him to take
his Wife -- he earnestly entreated Montagu to be her
proctetor during his absence telling him he was
the only person he thought worthy of such a trust. &
departed from Venice w^th. a lighter heart than he would
have had had he not poʃseʃsed (as he imagined) so true a fr^d-
The Merchants Wife was far from happy at this arrangement
but could not bring herself to awaken suspicion &
distrust in a breast whos only aim was to promote
her happineʃs -- he not only had y^e. highest opinion
of Montagues integrity, but thought she would find
the separation leʃs tedious by having the society of
of a person so calculated to amuse by the brilliancy
of his wit imagination & inexhaustible fund of
entertainment by he poʃseʃsed by remembering
every occurrence of a most extroadinary life, -- (The
vicious part of w^ch. he however always was on his
Guard to conceal) -- M^r. M—— behaviour, toward the
Lady, was such after her Husbands departure that
she had every reason to be well satisfied w^th. him
& had almost lost recollection of his former base --
conduct -- things were in this state when she rec^d-
a letter with the heart breaking intelligence that
her Husband had been taken suddenly ill & was dead
M^r. Montagu did all in his power to aʃsuage her Grief
                                                         He

---

                                                         38
he desired her not to credit the report but to send to Holland
for certificates by w^ch. the certainty of y^e. fact could be known --
Montagu wrote -- the fatal certificate arrived -- Montagus
whole study was to endeavour to console y^e. wretched
Widow -- after a decent time he proposed himself
said he lived but for her, & that his unwearied attention
deserved some recompence & who could she so proper-
ly accept as the Man who had been loved & esteem'd
by her late worthy Husband -- the Widow hesitated
some time, she was obliged to acknowledge she lay
under particular obligations to him, he had render-
ed himself servicable to her w^th. respect to her af-
fairs &c &c -- & she likewise began to think he
truly lov'd her, for what man would have been so very
aʃsidious, so long constant -- she lost sight of y^e. criminal-
ity of his first offers -- she promised to marry him
at y^e. expiration of a year & till that time he approved
of her Residing in a Convent -- they were then married.
Will you believe that the Merchant was not dead?
& That Montagu had practised y^e. same deceit on
him by send^g. him forged certificates of his Wifes
death -- whose disposition he knew w^ld. prevent him
from returning to place where she died -- This adven-
ture was near 5 Years in acting -- some preʃsing
affairs obliged the Merchant to revisit Venice, judge
what he must have felt on finding his Wife alive
& Married to Montagu -- the injured pair sought
for redreʃs -- Montagu escaped, & our Ambaʃsador
screened him from the punishment due to his
crimes -- & he was too artful not to be prepared for
the worst that could happen.
Tuesday August.
27 continued
      After dinner all our party w^th. M^r Lovel --
      Standhope, & the Marquis & Marquise de
la Bedoyere went to the French Comedy ab^t. a Mile &
½ from Aix la Chapelle -- the Road bad -- the place
call'd Vaux-hall. -- one large house like an Hotel, -- the
Country romantic -- The Theatre is small but con-
veniently contrived -- at y^e. end of every act the company
                                                         go

---

39
Aix la Chapelle August 1776
go into Rooms from their Boxes -- where is Lemonade and
various kinds of refreshments -- in one Room there is a
Billiard Table, & in another a Far̄o bank is held. The
Petite Piece was the Pupile of Diderot, it was but
indifferently acted -- after this the Operas of y^e Deʃs^[44]
The Man who performed y^e. Deserteur had good action
&, as far as I am a judge, a fine voice -- the other actors
had little to recommend them to admiration yet they
rec^d. applause. -- went to the Rooms in the Eve^g -- there
was not any dancing as the Primus had engaged the
musicians at y^e. jesuits College -- The Marquis & Mar-
quise de la Bedoyere sup'd with us.
Wednesday
28 August
      I again accompanied Lord Dartrey to
      the jesuits Colledge to hunt after pic-
tures, as he wished to purchase some, ashaving heard the Paintings
and all other moveables were to be sold -- the jesuits
being extirpated -- we roamed about the immense
building went into numberleʃs Rooms, all looked
deserted & made one feel quite melancholy -- Lord D——
could not find a Picture worth buying -- I make no
doubt the jesuits had valuable pictures but had
prudently conveyed them away in secret; in this
Lord Dartrey agreed with me. We then went to the
Hotel de Ville or Town Hall to meet Lady Dartrey
M^r. Dawson, the Penn's M^r.. Foster, & Marquis & Marquise de
La Bedoyere -- We saw from thence a grand proceʃsion
it being S^t. Austin's day -- A large braʃs Head in w^ch-
were inclosed some of the Saints bones was carried
before a number of Priests & a great concourse of
people, all walking in pairs, with books in their
hands, chaunting Hymns -- The Host was carried
under a magnificient Canopy -- the High-priest
under another in his best Vestments, his train was
borne by two Pages -- the other Priests walkd accord-
ing to their rank -- all richly clothed. Incense was
                                                         thrown up,

---

                                                         40
up, all the way, behind them -- The High Priest performed
many ceremonies, & the People all knelt upon the pavement.
In this Manner they proceeded through all the Streets. --
We then went to see the Play-House w^ch. is much larger
than y^e one we were at yesterday -- it has been shut up for
two Years on acc^t of some dis-agreement. We saw at an
Apothecary's a complete & valuable collection of Shells, & Foʃsils, --
I regretted time did not allow our seeing them more
particularly; from the Apothecary's proceeded to a jewellers
who had many tempting articles, -- I was most pleased
with an elegant snuff Box, w^ch. on preʃsing a small
Spring play'd two or three pretty little airs very sweetly.
Here the Marquis & his Lady parted from us, & we call'd
on Lady Webb -- M^rs & 2 Miʃs Boughton's dined w^th-
us & left us early -- The Marquis & Marquise came to
take leave, I had the glory of beating him 2 Games at
Cheʃs -- you may easily suppose dear Mama he is no
capital player, I never can win a Game when I play with
You. Lady Dartrey went to the Bath -- Lord Dartrey
Master Grenville Penn & I went for ½ an hour to the
Rooms -- then supper, & early to Bed.
Thursday
29^th August
1776
      Nothing could have afforded me such heart-
      felt satisfaction my Dearest Mama as your
      last letter & the comfortable aʃsurances of
Your being so well, w^ch. is confirmed by my amiable friends
Katherine & Anna Maria. -- Ladey Dartrey charges me to
aʃsure you that she is quite penetrated by your
constant attention & goodneʃs to her dear Boy -- her
Serv^ts. have written to inform her how frequently you
go to Hammersmith & the handsome play things you
give him -- M^r. Hudson, Lord Dartreys Butler, is going
to England  ------------------  & has promised to take
charge of a packet for me. He will deliver it in per-
son, & I wish to give you a hint that he has been
Remarkably civil & waited on me as if I had been
his Mistreʃs -- indeed all Lord & Lady Dartrey's Servants
treat me with equal civility, & though I am very careful
not to give them trouble, & wait on me as if it was their
duty. M^rs: Palfrey (who has lived w^th. L^y Dartrey long
                                                         before

---

41
before she married -- I believe since she was a Child,) &
I, are quite friends -- she is a worthy creature and truly
deserving such a Mistreʃs. You will, I believe, my
Dear Mama receive a visit from M^r. Foster who kindly
says he will call on you to give you a true & satisfactory
account of my health. I will now continue my Journal
-- I am happy you so much approve of my writing
in this manner.
29^th We left Aix la Chapelle ab^t. 8 o'Clock.  ------ there are
the greatest numbers of Beggars & miserable objects in
this City poʃsible to be conceiv'd -- lame, deformed in
every way, yellow & squalid looking -- it is really very
painful to look at them, and they appear to delight
in unclotedneʃs, as they are very idle & indolent. The
Children when born are bound up like Mumies w^th-
bandages -- You will see a Mother in the Streets with a
Child some months old in ther arms w^ch. till you are
near enough to observe its Monstrous head you w^ld-
take for a Collar of Brawn bound round; perhaps it
is owing to this method of treating young Children whosethat
there are so many diminutive deformed creatures --
Yet that cannot be the case neither as I am told this
Method is pursued all over the Continent, where there
are tall men & women &c, &c, & in the Scriptures
we read of the Child in swadling Clothes.
We dined at Verviers a neat Town, appeared as large
as Aix la Chapelle -- the Country surrounding is very
beautiful -- There is a very steep hill near y^e. Town
from whence you have a delightful view -- the road for some
Miles is rough & Stoney -- near Spa is better and y^e-
Country picturesque & Grand -- Hills covered w^th.. wood
on each side -- Meadows at the bottom w^th. natural
Cascades pouring down from the Hills, & a River by y^e-
side of the Road -- we arrived at Spa by tea time &
immediately went to Lodgings -- the Hotel de Lor-
raine^[45] -- Lord Dartrey has taken the whole House w^ch-
is one of considerable size -- viz. a large drawing Room,
Do. Dining Room, Parlour, &c, and ab^t. 20 other Rooms.
M^r Dames, a near Relation of the unfortunate Mr-

---

                                                         42
M^r Dames that lately destroy'd himself, called on Lord D——
he appears a worthy sort of Man; & a young Coxcomb, a
M^r Rumbold.
Spa Friday y^e.
30^th. August
1776
      In the Morn^g. went to M^r Descars a civil
      intelligent Bookseller; gave our names to
      be printed -- the custom at Spa is to have
Cards delivered round by a Man to announce y^r. arrival --
the compliment is immediately acknowledged by
the visiting Tickets of those who have rec^d. them, by
the same Man. Thus you are introduced to persons
of all Nations, visitors at Spa. A M^r Nugent, & our
agreeable, good humoured Aix la Chapelle acquain-
tance, Mon^r Butin called -- In the Eve^g. we went to
the Comedy -- The Play house is a pretty building in
a Circular form -- The Center Box, upstairs, openins --
(after the play is over) into an large elegant Room, or-
namented with White & Gold, it is calld y^e.. Redoute,
where there is an Aʃsembly kept, & when there is no
Comedy performed -- planks are laid acroʃs y^e Pit w^ch-
makes another spacious handsome Room -- there are
also several rooms of leʃs dimensions for Card Tables.

Saturday
31^st. August
      Early this Morning I accompanied Lady
      Dartrey to the Geronstere,^[46] ab^t 2 miles from
Spa -- met M^rs Harry Grenville & Daughter (she is Wife
to the youngest Brother of y^e. Temples^[47] & was the
handsome clever Peggy Banks whoch you have heard M^r-
Glover mention -- as a Young Woman was admired for her
beauty (w^ch. w^ld have been perfect but for her forehead
w^ch. was too high & what is called a Knee forehead y^e-
hair growing too far back &c) & dreaded for the bitter-
neʃs of her satirical talents. There were few persons
on the walk where the company generally exercise after
drinking the Water -- it is cut out between Woods, the
Country Romantic, & what I call interesting, the Road
Stony & Rough but safe, There is a Room to shelter in, in
case of Rain something like a large Barn, but where you
may spend Money in Marchandises & Bijouteries -- Lady

---

43
Lady Dartrey & I return'd to Spa to Breakfast --
In the Evening we went to the Ball at Vauxhall --

Spa 1^st Sep^br.
1776
Sunday
      My Dearest Mama -- An hour ago I rec^d. --
      Your kind letter, & Lady Dartrey was much
pleased with the one you wrote to her, she bids me tell
You she would answer it was she not much hurried in
writing a Number of letters to send to England -- the
Same post brought her an acc^t. of your carrying her
dear little Son a Horse, & how happy you had made
him -- Lord & Lady Dartrey charged me w^th. many
other things to say to you -- w^ch. I will tell you some other
opportunity -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
Spa
31^st. continued -- Coll. Pringle an agreeable Soldier like
Gentleman dined with us, we went to Vauxhall in y^e.
Evening to a Ball, ab^t. 14 Couple, I danced first w^th-
M^r Dawson -- then with M^r Nugent, M^r Roʃs &c. &c.
we came home early -- Vaux-hall is ab^t. a quarter
of a Mile distant from the Town -- It is a well proportioned
building & large it has not been finished above 6 or 7 Years.
I did not mention that Lady Dartrey & I walked in y^e-
Rooms at Vauxhall in our way from the Geronstere this
Morn^g. & that Monsieur Butin introduced us to his
Sister & Niece & they walked w^th. us about y^e fields near
that place.

Sunday
Sep^br. 1^st-
      The Rain prevented L^y. Dartrey going to the
      Geronstere this Morn^g -- M^r. Foster read the
Morning Service -- ab^t. 12 L^d: & L^y. D——, Master Grenville
Penn & I walked up the Mountain as far as *Lubin &
Annettes Cottage,^[48] it is a lovely situation & not so much
exposed as one should imagine for there is a rising
Wood w^ch. on y^e. back part shelters it. We partook of some Bouillion
Annette had prepared for dinner, w^ch. of course Lord
D. rewarded her for, & left her & Lubin well pleased
w^th. our visit. We dined early, then went to the Capu-
Capuchin Church to hear Pere Garnier preach -- it
                                                         was

---

                                                         44
was a very good discourse on Repentance -- he preached
extempore, he has a clear good voice & pronounces his
words distinctly -- his action chaste; -- The Prayer before
the Sermon was in Latin as were the Texts he quoted.
He was dreʃsed like the Common Capuchin Monks.
After y^e. Sermon we walked in the Garden of the Monks
w^ch. is open to all who chuse to avail themselves of y^e
priviledge. -- We then returned to our Hotel -- & all
remain'd at home. At 6 o'Clock on Sundays there is a
Comedy, and the Rooms are open, w^th. Faro, &c, as on other
Evenings.

Monday
Sep^r. 2^d
      Lady Dartrey & I went early to y^e. Geronstere.
M^r Butin gave Lord & L^y- Dartrey & their
party a Breakfast on the Mountain (where Lubin &
Annette reside) -- near the Cottage is a large Room, & there
weare two Tents fixed, one in their Garden & any^eother upon
a Graʃs Plat upon an open part of the Mountain for y^e.
accomodation of company from Spa -- M^r. Butin,
had invited several Gentlemen & Ladies to meet
us -- the walk to the Mountain is ab^t. a Mile cut
through the woods to make the as̄ent easy -- the compa
ny -- besides our party were as follows -- Mon^r. Butin,
his Sister la Vicomteʃse de Montboisier, her
daughter in law, who is only 16 & has been married
2 Years, a merry good humour'd creature -- Mon^r.
D'Orcy an elegant agreeable French Gentleman, Mon^r-
*D'Armes -- a Man paʃsd the middle age, a Man of
taste & amiable manners. M^r.. Jenkinson, and
the celebrated M^r. Hans Stanley -- M^r. M^rs.. & Miʃs
Henry Grenville. Mon^r. Butins Servants brought
all y^e. refreshments from Spa, such as fruits --
Cakes, Sweatmeats, &c &c &c -- Tea, Coffee, Chocolate
and we had different kinds of Ice made by
Annette -- from an Ice House w^ch. Lubin had made
himself -- we were all very gay: -- after Breakfast M^r-
Butin gave us ladies 6 Chances in a Raffle, as a
Man from Spa had followed the party with trinkets in
                                                         hopes of
*His Name is spelt D'Armenston, but he is call'd D'Armes.

---

45
of selling some -- the Man understood his busineʃs so well
that no prize was gained by any one but Miʃs Grenville
who got a pair of Siʃsors she could not use. The weather
grew cloudy so we all agreed it was prudent to hasten
home -- when we got to the bottom of y^e Mountain, the
Vicomteʃse took L^y D. & me from the promenade de quatres
Heures in her Coach to our Hotel, where she & her
Daughter in Law sat goʃsiping for above an hour.
Mon^r Butin, Mon^r D'Armes La Baronne & I play'd at
Cheʃs. Lady D. as well as myself was pleased and
amused w^th. our new foreign acquaintances --
M^rs: & two Miʃs Boughton's came from Aix la Chapelle
& dined with us; -- We went to the Redoute, there
was a Ball, I declined dancing -- having kept on my
Riding Habit -- play'd at Cheʃs in y^e rooms w^th. y^e. Baronne
We came home early.

Tuesday
Sep^tr. 3^d
      Paid several visits in the Morn^g. -- M^r-
      Damer dined w^th. us -- Lord & Lady Dartrey
& I went with the Viscomteʃse &c &c, to the Comedy --
Grotseys Music w^ch. is very charming, after the play
went for ½ an hour to the Rooms -- In y^e. Eve^g. Lord D
gave a handsome supper at our Hotel -- to M^r. Boutin,
his Sister, her Daughter in law, Mon^r. D'Armes, Mon^r.
D'Orcy, Lord Westport (a young Irish Nobleman) 20
Years old) & the Eldest Miʃs Boughton.

Wednesday
Sep^tr. 4^th.
      Lady Dartrey went early to y^e. Geronstere
      with M^r. Grenville Penn -- Lord Dartrey &
I rode on Horseback, & I afterwards rode with M^r Dawson
& M^r Penn & Foster in the Woods as far as the Sauven-
iere -- I was delighted w^th. this ride, there was a pecu-
liar fragrance in the air from variety of wild herbs,
my young friends enjoy'd it as much as myself.
We all dined at M^r. Tisdalls an Irish Gentleman
of large fortune, the dinner, wines &c. quite Princ^ely
yet all equally easy as elegant -- The Ruʃsian Princeʃs
Dasckaw & her friend M^rs. Hamilton came after dinner. We

---

                                                         46
Spa
We went to the Rooms for a short time -- M^r. Damer came
home w^th. us to Supper -- Mon^r. Butin, to our regret, came
to take leave as he departs tomorrow Morn^g.

Thursday
5 Sep^tr.
      Lady Dartrey & I took an airing upon the
      Chauʃsée, *calld on Madame la Viscomteʃse de
M. & some others -- in the Eve^g Mon^r. D'armenston & D'Orcy called --
and the Viscomteʃse & her Daughter la Baronne came
to bid us Adieu as they leave Spa tomorrow.

Friday
6^th Sep^tr.
      Lady Dartrey & I staid at home all Morn^g as
      it rained -- M^rs. & two Miʃs Boughton's went
with us to the Comedy in y^e. afternoon, we went afterwards
for a short time to the Redoute came home early.

Saturday
7^th Sep^tr.
      We all Breakfasted at the Rooms at Vaux-
      hall -- each party have a table either in the
large Ball room, or in the other Rooms, w^ch. are for Cards,
& w^ch. open with large folding glaʃs Doors into the great Room --
At the end of the Ball Room w^ch is a fine one there is a
Band of Music playing during the Breakfast. Many
persons remain here all Morning, till dinner time,
playing at Farro & other games -- Whist appears a
favorite with foreigners as well as English -- Several
Young Men have been utterly ruined in their for-
tunes this Season at Spa, it is chiefly Irish &
English who have fallen a prey to Gamesters.
A Captain Roache, a M^r. English, & a M^r. Popham^[49]
have occasioned much disagreeable conversation
for some days past -- a Duel is to be fought between
Cap^tn. Roache & M^r. English^[50] -- CapM^r Popham ran away
but they obliged him to return. These 3 Men have
very bad characters -- & they are well known at Water-
drinking places in England.
After Breakfast Lady Dartrey, & I had a pleasant drive tête
a tête to the Sauveniere (one of y^e. Mineral fountains)
& took a delightful walk in the Woods, thro' w^ch. there
                                                         are
Sauvenire

---

47
paths cut. -- there is one walk raised at a considerable
expence & gravelled; by some German Count. This
place is more beautiful & retired than the Geronstere
Lady D, & I prefered going when there was no com-
pany. We met an Old Man who looked like an Her-
mit; he appeared very old, walked with difficulty &
seemed nearly blind -- his countenance was pre-
poʃseʃsing w^ch. induced us to speak to him, after
asking him a few questions to w^ch. he replied in a
respectful sensible manner, he informed us, that
he had been a Coachman, that one day the carriage
he drove was attack'd by Robbers -- that he was knock'd
from his Seat & so dreadfully beaten as nearly to
lose his life -- in consequence he became nearly blind;
& he was now in so reduced a state of poverty as to
be obliged to lodge in a Stable -- Lady Dartrey w^th-
her usual sweetneʃs spoke words of consolation to y^e.
poor Man & reminded him that the Saviour of y^e. World
slept in a Stable, &c &c -- he seemed penetrated by w^t-
she said, and shed tears -- L^y D: gave him an alms, to
w^ch. I added my mite, & I doubt not but that we left him happier
than we found him.
      The Sauvenire is a place you w^d. greatly admire
My Dearest Mama -- the Woods, walks, murmuring streams,
The Air, the quiet -- & then, if neceʃsary, the invigorating
Mineral beverage of the Fountain. -- Not having occasion
for the Waters I do not drink them.
Near the Common Fountain, is another of Marble^[51] w^th- y^e-
following Inscription w^ch. I copied.
      Patus joes? Baroa Groesbeeck Arch. Condr. Ss.^mee
      S. Celnis Cancellarius viciartema vera separaba't
      Anno 1651. Alex. Lud. Marchio de Croix abuxora
      consanguineus Restauravit Anno 1776^[52]
Here there is the shape of a Human foot carved out in Stone
w^ch.. is shewn as the spot where S^t Ramock^[53] of Spa once
stood, & they say that it effects cures if a person puts
their foot in the one carved out whilst they drink some
of the Water of the Fountain. -- In the Eve^g afternoon Mon^r D'Orcy
& Mon^r D'Armenston sat w^th. Lady^[54] & me till Supper time.

---

                                                         48
Spa Sunday
Sep^tr. 8^th. 1776
      M^r Foster read the Morning Service --
at 5 o'Clock Lady Dartrey, the young Men, & myself went
to the Capuchin Church -- the same Monk preached who
we heard last Sunday & equally well, the discourse was
an exhortation against Solleneʃs -- staid at home in y^e.
Evening = Lord D dined at y^e. Club -- he was not very
well, came home early & went to bed.
Monday
9^th.Sep^tr.
      We were happy to see Lord D: quite well again
      this Morn^g.. we walked about to Shops, &c.
before dinner -- Lady D. went to the Ball in the
Evening to Chaperon the Miʃs Boughton's -- I remain'd
at home to write Letters -- we call'd in the Morn^g. on
M^rs. & Miʃs Harry Grenville -- Miʃs Grenville played a
little to us on the Piano Forte; & we were shewn
some pretty little drawings of her executing: M^rs. H:
Grenville is very lively &, to me, agreeable in her
conversation.

Tuesday Sep^tr.
10^th-
      I got up at five o'Clock that I might be
      ready to preside at the Breakfast Table
for my young Friends M^r. Dawson & The 2 M^r. Penn's
who with their Tutor left Spa this Morn^g.. After they
were gone Lady Dartrey & I went to the Geronstere; it
is the water of this Fountain she is prescribed to drink.
We returned home to Breakfast, after that we took
an airing upon the Chausée, & before dinner walk'd up
the Mountain to the Temple. Mon^r. D'Orcy and M^r-
D'Armes, (or D'ameⁿstene) who the latter is well acquainted w^th-
our Friend Leonidas Glover, whom he met at Paris,
he speaks of him with high esteem and desired me to
present his kind regards when I had an opportunity.)
dined with us -- Mon^r. D'Orcy is a married Man, Mon——
D'Armes a Batchelor. After dinner Comte Marechal
came in -- he has a post near the Empreʃs of Germanys^[55]
person^[56] -- his manners are quiet & polite & he has great
taste for the polite arts. The Marquis & Marquise de
Trotti & their Daughter drank tea w^th: us, they appear
worthy kind of persons -- the Marquis is an Italian and
                                                         his

---

49
      Spa Sep^tr.
his Lady a German. The Marquise made many enquiries
after the Queen of England and said she was very intimate
w^th. her as was her Daughter before she left Germany. she asked
also after M^rs. Thursby of Abington whom she had met
at Spa, was pleased to find she was a friend of mine
& sent many kind meʃsages w^ch. I promised to write
in a few days. The Marquis de Trotti came to Spa
last year in so weak a state as to be unable to move
without being supported by two persons, & was perfectly re-
covered by drinking y^e. water of y^e. Geronstere & bathing
in the Tannelet Baths -- he is now here in his way from
Italy -- & his Wife & daughter came to meet him. Miʃs
Grenville also drank tea w^th us & staid till near 9 o'Clock,
a late hour for Spa. Lady Dartrey did not go to
the Ball, so we had a comfortable tête a tête.

Wednesday
11 Sep^tr-
      After breakfast our agreeable acquaintances
      M^r D'Orcy & D'Armes paid us a short visit.
I had the pleasure of riding on Horseback w^th. Lord
Dartrey, -- Lady Dartrey went w^th. M^rs. & Miʃs Boughton's,
to the Tannelet where there are both hot & Cold Baths,
& 3 Springs, each different in Taste, as strongly
Mineral as the Pouhon. -- We had no company
at Dinner -- at Tea we had Col^l. Conway & M^r. D'Orcy,
Col^l. Conway is an old Man who bears an amiable
character -- he is Irish, -- has been many years in
the Empreʃs of Germany's service -- they left us early. --
S^r. John & Lady Webb call'd in their way to y^e. Comedy,
w^th. Miʃs Boughton, -- S^r. J & L^y. W. arrived from Aix la
Chapelle yesterday. Dear Lady Dartrey & I staid quietly
at home the rest of the Eve^g -- the Weather is uncom-
monly fine.
Thursday
Sep^tr. 12^th
      Went w^th. Lady Dartrey to y^e. Geronstere, return'd
      to Breakfast, the elegant pleasing Mon^r. D'Orcy
sat with us whilst we breakfasted. Lady D. & I called
on y^e. Marquise de Trotti in our way to y^e. Sauvenire
                                                         where we

---

                                                         50
      Spa Sep^tr
we spent the rest of the Morning, enjoying the delightful
Air, & charming walks thro' the woods -- we returned home
only time enough to dreʃs for dinner -- Lord D: dined
at the Club -- after dinner walked with L^y. Dartrey up
the Mountain & 4 o'Clock walk -- Lord D. came home
to tea & went tot the Rooms -- he wanted us to go to the
Ball -- but we prefer̄'d a sociable tête á tête at home &
L^y- D: gave orders to be denied to visitors.

Friday Sep^tr.
13^st. --
      Went early w^th Ly Dartrey to y^e Geronstere.
      Ser: John & L^y Webb, Mon^r. D'Orcy, Mon^r-
D'Armes, & Comte Maréchal breakfasted w^th- us, after
which we & weall the party went to Vauxhall -- the Weather
was very Sultry. -- we were introduced to a Channoineʃs
& a Baronne de Fraitture, -- Lord D. din'd at y^e. Club,
& Lady D. w^th. M^rs. Boughton, I excused myself &
dined alone, employed myself in writing. I went w^th.
L^y. D. to the Comedy in y^e. afternoon, she had taken a
Whole Box -- her party was Lady Webb, Miʃs Jane
Boughton Mon^r. D'Orcy M^r. D'Armes & Comte Marechal
-- after the Comedy we all went to the Redoute.

Saturday
14^th- Sep^tr.
      Accompanied Lady Dartrey early to the
      Geronstere -- after Breakfast L^y. Webb came
& we went with her to Vauxhall -- met M^me- Trotti &
the Princeʃs Daschkow, she was in Man Clothes, w^ch.
is her usual Morning dreʃs -- her hair greasy, powdered
& tied in a Club behind, a very shabby small 3 Cornered
Cock hat -- boots &c. -- Lord & L^y: D. & I dined at
M^r: Tisdall's -- 12 at Table -- after dinner Princeʃs
Daschkaw and her friend M^rs. Hamilton (an Irish lady) came, they
are both great friends of M^rs. Morgan's (M^r: Tisdall's
only Child -- she is a Widow & has a Child, a Daughter,
who is w^th. her -- she is a very agreeable, well bred,
sensible woman, I like her extremely.)
Princeʃs D. made herself very engaging, to oblige Lady
D. she went into a room where there was a Harpsicord
& playd & sung some music of her own composing, the airs
                                                         were

---

51
pretty & words plaintive -- she sent for y^e. Notes to give
Lady D. a copy -- & presented me w^th. a little Manuscript
Poem she had in her Pocket -- M^rs. Morgan told me that
this extroadinary Woman had taken a liking to my
countenance, & desired I would not be reserved
towards her -- Princeʃs D. complained much of y^e-
weak State her Nerves were in, & said it was not
poʃsible for her to sing or play in public.
P^ʃs. D's voice is sweet
but not strong.^[57]
Lady Dartrey, Lady Webb, & I, went to y^e Ball at
Vauxhall -- I only danced two Dances it being hot
& the Rooms so crowded -- Lady D. & I got home as
soon as we could & spent y^e remainder of y^e. Eve^g-
happily together.

Sunday
15^th- Sep^tr-
      Mon^r. D'Orcy breakfasted w^th. us, he then
      left us to go to Maʃs. & L^d. & L^y D. & I
went to M^r. Tisdall's to attend Morn^g. Service -- M^r.
T. having a Clergyman in his House & where the
English or Protestants aʃsemble every Sunday Morn^g..
after we returned home M^r: D'armes & many others
persons came in.
Lady Dartrey & I drank tea w^th. Princeʃs Dashkow
her powers of entertaining are great, she play'd &
sung -- and read several letters from her friend &
correspondent, the celebrated Mon^r. Diderot, she
also read a little piece of his called la Vielle robe
de Chambre^[58] -- they were clever. She gave Lady D.
a profile of Voltaire cut with Siʃsors out by M^r. Hubert, who
is famous for this art, & can cut out striking
likeneʃs's & the most beautiful Landscapes in
paper without looking, & holding his hands under
the Table. -- We took leave of M^r. Tisdall, M^rs.
Morgan &c who quit Spa tomorrow.

Monday
16^th- Sep^tr-
      S^r. John & L^y Webb, Comte Maréchal
      Sir George O. Paul, M^r. D'armes, D'Orcy,
& S^r. Ralph Paynes breakfasted with us, -- and
                                                         at

---

                                                         52
      Spa -- 1776
at Dinner we had M^r & M^rs Nugent, Col^l. Conway, &
M^r Fitzsimon (an Irish Gentleman a Widower, &
Roman Catholic, who has an only Child, a Son, who is at
the Colledge at Leige) who has a fine voice for
singing, w^ch. he does in the Italian Stile. -- The Gren-
villes, Boughton's, -- M^r D'armes D'orcy, &c. called before
it was time for the Ball. -- Lady Dartrey & I re-
mained quietly at home the rest of y^e. Eve^g --

Tuesday
17^th. Sep^tr.
      S^r. John & Lady Webb, Comte Marade -- M^r D'Orcy &
D'Armes to Breakfast -- afterwards M^r-
Hawkins Brown -- then the Marquise de Trotti who
sat w^th- L^y- D whilst her hair was dreʃsing -- L^y D:
thinks, from her conversation, that she is a very religious
good Woman -- she is at the same time lively and
pleasant. We had at Dinner Comte Marechal, M^r.
Fitzsimon, D'Armes' & D'orcy -- Lord D: & his company
went to the Ball at y^e. Redoute -- Lady D & I remained
quietly at home.

Wednesday
18 Sep^tr-
      Lord & L^y. D. & I went to a Breakfast
given by M^r Bunney, an Englishman, who
is engaged to young Lady of the name of Hurlock, said
to poʃseʃs a very large fortune -- he is a handsome Man,
she is plain. The Breakfast was elegant & plentifully
served -- Ices, fruits, Confectionary of all kinds &c &c
After Breakfast there was a Ball and we danced till
near two o'Clock -- Lord Dartrey had no guests at
dinner. Mon^r. D'Orcy & D'Armes came to take
leave -- We found out that y^e. latter was always called
D'Armes by french people, but that his true name
is Harmensen, a German Name. L^y Webb, S^r.. G. Paul,
Lord Wesport came in before the Comedy. Lady D. & I
paʃsed the eve^g. comfortably together.

Thursday
19^th. Sep^tr
      Mon^r. D'Orcy & DHarmanzon came & sat w^th. us
      during Breakfast -- Alas! for the last time!
                                                         for their Car-

---

      Spa Sep^tr.. 1776
53
Carriages were waiting to take them away. they really ap-
peared concerned to part from Lord & Lady Dartrey, & me
also, I hope. M^r. Harmenzen gave me an open Note
to transcribe for M^r. Glover -- w^ch. you will be so good to shew
him. “M^r. Harmenzen, Bourdeaux; Frere á Madame
“L'Atour feger, fait mille compliment a Mon^r Glover, il
“aurait eté enchanté le voir á Spa, ou il paʃsée trois
“Semaines avec bien du plaisir, aijant au le bonheur de
“faire la connoiʃsance de Mi-Lord et Mi-Lady Dártrey
“& Mademoiselle Hamilton; societé si douce et si agre-
“ablequil n'on perderai jam̄ais le souvenir; il se flatte
“quil arait aurait bientot de les revoir & vous auʃsi mon
“mon cher Mon^r. Glover á Londres: un peu de part de votreans
“votre amitie s'il vous plait”
     Col^l Nugent paid a visit -- at Dinner we had M^r. & M^rs.
Nugent & M^r. Fitzsimon, Comte Marechal came after
dinner. L^y Dartrey L^y Webb, &c. went to pay visits -- I
excused myself & remained at home -- at 9 I. went to
the Ball to join Lady Dartrey on purpose to see two Miʃs Corgle-
ton's dance -- one 8, the other, 6 years old. the eldest dances
inimitably, the other surprisingly well for her age, they are
the Daughters of a Scotch Physician who practises at Spa --
I did not chuse to dance -- L^y- D: & I return'd home early.

Friday 20^th-
Sep^ber-
      Lord & Lady Dartrey went to Vauxhall as
Sir George, O, Paul gave a Public breakfast.
they would not suffer me to go with them as I was a little
indisposed -- & they are as kindly anxious about me as if I
was their own Child. Col^l. Hamilton, of the Abercorn
family, in the service of y^e. Empreʃs of Ruʃsia; Col^l-
Johnson, who has been in America, M^r Fitzsimons,
& Col^l Conway &c. dined with us. M^rs & Miʃs Boughton's
Marquis Marquise de Trotti & their Daughter drank tea. --
L^y Webb came & sat ½ an hour alone with me -- she mention'd
some circumstances relative to her situation w^ch. were very
interesting. -- We saw also for a short time S^r Ralph &
Lady Payne -- M^r. &M^rs Wedderburne, M^r. Macdonald, Miʃs Mills,^[59]
Comte Marechal M^r H. Brown M^r Nugent -- L^y Dartrey & I remain'd at home.
                                                         Sat^ry 21 Sep^tr..

---

^[60]
La Mqse Trotti Le
recomande au Souve
nir de M^lle d'amilton
et Sa prie d'ètre per-
suadé que Son amitié
pour Elle ne finera
quavec La Vie.
Elle en auʃsi prie
de Sa rappeller au
Souvenir de Mad:
Tursby. et de Lui dire
qu'Elle nétoit Surem^t.
pas Venu a Spa cette
année parceque
M^r Foulon n'y etoit etoit
pas AB

---

^[61]
Le Coeur de ma fille
est L'interprette du
Mieu, en faisant
 ------  avec elle. je
vous prie ma chere
Miʃs d'etre persuadés
qu'en tous Les terres et
Les Lieux Vous n'aurés
pas d'amie plus Sincere
que La Mqse de Trotti.

---

^[62]
Marquise de
Trotti et sa fille
Spa -- Sep^r. 1776 -- ^[63]

---

      Spa 1776
                                                         54
Saturday
21^st Sep^br-
      I was made perfectly happy my Dearest Mama by the
      very comfortable acc^ts. you sent of your health & spirits.
I am glad you are made easy w^th. respect to your Agent in Ireland.
it is a pity he is not more punctual. I suppose Lords Spencer
& Warwick will be in Town at y^e. meeting of Parliament, & then
My Uncle William & L^y. Hamilton will settle there for a time,
I hope they will be near you -- &c

---

      Journal in continuation

Spa
Sat^ry.
Sep^tr 21^st
1776.
      Lady Dartrey & I called on the Marquise de Trotti &
      spent an hour agreeably in conversation with her & her
lively Daughter. Lord Dartrey invited M^r Adair^[64] to dinner
he is a Surgeon in London & practises as a Physician at
Spa during the Season -- he is a Scotchman -- his manners
are plain but well bred & his conversation sensible &
instructive -- Went to Ball w^th. Lady Dartrey in y^e. Eve^g.
where we took of the Trottis who gave me y^e. following Souvenir^[65]
in writing -- ^[66]
                             Chere Miʃse
                             Pensés à une Amie,
                             Pensés ÿ Souvent
                             Pensés que pour la Vie
                             Elle Vous aimera Tendrement
                             Isabelle Mqse Trotti
Sunday
22^d. Sep^tr.
      We went to Prayers at 11 oClock at an old lame
      Lady's, her name Fisher. Afterwards walkd up y^e.
Mountain to *Lubin's Cottage * Mem. d^r. L. & A. -- Lady Webb dined w^th. Lady
Dartrey -- we had no other company as Lord D: dined at y^e-
Club. S^r. George Paul, Lord Westport, M^r.. Webb, (Brother to S^r. John)
a pleasant handsome Man, & many others call'd after dinner.
In the Eve^g. Comte Marechal sat with Lady Dartrey & me.
there is a melancholy diffused over his countenance that
interests one. He gave us a long detail of Miʃs Louisa.
Nugents illneʃs & death -- she died at Spa last Summer. --
He told us that Hervey's Meditations & Young's Night Thoughts
are translated into the German language. It is whis-
pered here that Comte Marechal was paʃsionately in
love with Miʃs Louisa Nugent, who was elegant, pretty &
amiable, & that after she was dead he contrived to get
into y^e. Chamber where y^e. Corpse lay & remained a consider-
able time mourning over it. He told us he should visit
                                                         England next year.
                                                         Monday

---

55           (Spa 1776)
Monday
Sep^br. 23
      I staid at home all day -- not being quite well --
Lady Dartrey went to the Ball &c -- Many people
called in the course of y^e. day.

Tuesday
24^th. Sep^br.
      Walked out in y^e Morn^g.. Lord & L^y Dartrey & I
      dind at Sir John Webb's, met Lady Catherine
Belasyse (who being a zealous Catholic resides at Leige
in the Winter) Comte Marechal, & M^r. & M^rs.. Needham.^[67]
In the Eve^g. we went to a Concert at the Rooms for a
charitable purpose -- I should be ashamed to tell you
I laugh'd very much had not Dear Lady Dartrey kept
me in countenance -- & been obliged almost to bite off
her thumb & devour a box full of bon bons to endeavour
to sup̄reʃs doing so, Lady Webb behaved no better --
Conceive a miserable, little, figure of a Man in the
Middle of an immense Room playing a Solo on the
German flute, in tones so weak, or delicate, if you chuse,
that no sound reached the ear, except now & then a tone
that resembled y^e. squeak of a Pig -- but the serious
part of this Concert was that the little wretch stoked
his ½ Guineas at Farron afterwards -- I had a
great enclination to ask him to repay my Crown --
for I am sure I could have put it out to better interest.
We went, afterwards to the Rooms & returned home early.

Wednesday
Sep^tr. 25^th-
      I went after Breakfast to meet Lady Webb at
      Vauxhall -- Comte Maréchall & M^r Needham attended
us, & we had a delightful ride for 3 hours -- the little
Horses here drink like Cats, & one feels more secure
on their backs than scrambling up steep places on
ones feet -- we enjoyed the delicious Breezes on the tops
of Mountains, & was amused by seeking paths through
the close growing Woods. Lady Dartrey & I dined tête
á tête, I regretted she was not equal to riding, as I
am sure she would have felt as much pleasure as
I did this Morn^g.. -- After dinner we walk'd w^th. M^rs. and
Miʃs Boughton's up the Mountain. -- when we return'd
S^r. G: Paul, M^r Adair, Col^l. Conway, (a worthy Old Man) & others
                                                         came, also

---

      Spa 1776
                                                         56
Talso the Channoineʃse -- la Baronne de Gimnick. L^y. D.
& I went to the Rooms, I play'd at Cheʃs w^th. Ser R. Herries.

Thursday
216 Sep^tr.
Spa
      Sir George Paul, M^r. Nugent &c came whilst we were
at Breakfast -- I rode out again with Lady Webb
Comte Maréchal & M^r. Needham, the ride was equally pleas-
/ant at that of yesterday -- we climbed up some of the highest
Mountains & had charming views of y^e. Country -- fine
subjects for a Pouʃsin's (my favorite Landscape painter)
Pencil -- tho' I recollect I greatly admire the sublimity
of Salvator Rosa -- & here too is sublimity to be found. --
Some spots are Romantically pretty &c -- in short there is
variety to suit every taste. Lady Dartrey & I dined
tête á tête -- In the Eve^g Mad^me de Fraitture Lady Webb
& the Chan̄oineʃse came L^y D. & I went to y^e Ball w^th.. them
I danced more than usual -- there being now few families
Remaining -- it is civil to help to keep up y^e. Ball, w^ch-
is 3 times a week -- Ladies here are not at a loʃs for
Partners as they change every dance.

297^th Sep^tr.
Friday
      At home all Morn^g. M^r & M^rs Nugent & Comte MarechallCol^l. Conway dined
      w^th. L^d. & Lady Dartrey -- Many persons call'd both
Morn^g & afternoon -- went to the Rooms w^th. L^y D: I playd at
Cheʃs with Comte Maréchall.

28^th- Sep^tr..
Saturday
      At home all Morn^g.. -- Comte Marechall din'd
      with us -- in the Eve^g we went to the Ball, came
home early. Rec^d. a letter from my excellent friend M^r Glover.

29^th. Sep^tr
Sunday
      M^r. Boyce an old Irish Clergyman who resides al-on y^e.
 --- dcontinent on acc^t. of ill health breakfasted with
us & went with us to M^rs.. Fisher's where he read Prayers
afterward Lord & L^y Dartrey M^rs & Miʃs Boughton's & I
walked to y^e. old Spa, & in the 7 o'Clock walk -- dined with-
out company -- staid at home all Eve^g.. Sir G: Paul, the
Webb^[68] Comte Marechall &c &c &c came in y^e. afternoon --
had y^e happineʃs of rec^ng a letter from my Dear Mama &
some fr^m other friends --
                                                         Monday

---

      Spa 1776
57
Monday
Sep^tr 30^th.
      Lord & Lady Dartrey & I went to a private
breakfast at the Redoute given by la Bar̄onne
de Fraitture -- at w^ch. were S^r. Ralph & L^y Payne, the
Hon^bl. M^r. Mac-'Donald, -- M^r. Dalton, M^r. & M^rs. Wedderburne,
Miʃs Mills, the yorkshire beauty who was admired by
the Duke of York^[69] -- a great friend of M^rs. Wedderburn who is
also from Yorkshire, -- Count Rice, a dashing Irishman,
in the Emperor of Germanys service^[70], he plays well at
all games & fights Duels -- he is tall & genteel in his
person & adr̄eʃs. after breakfast I walk'd w^th. Lord
Dartrey, left Lady Dartrey playing at Cheʃs in the Rooms.
Afterwards took a pleasant tour round y^e. Mountains
with Lady Dartrey -- Lady Payne, the Chanoineʃse &
M^r. Hawkins Brown. Comte Marechall dined with
us -- we went to y^e. Ball in the Eve^g. -- You will have
heard of me from Hammersmith before this time -- .
Lord & L^y Dartrey return you D^rst Mama a thousand
thanks for your kindneʃs to their little Boy. Last
night re^d. the last letters I expected (at Spa) till I get
to Calais -- write by return of Post & direct there --
See the letter I wrote to M^r Glover &c

Tuesday
SepOct^br. 1^st.
      The Rooms last night looked rather de-
solate as many an agreeable acquaintance
had quitted Spa -- not longer did I hear y^e: gentle sighs
of -- nor the bombast Compliments of -- .
I accompanied Lord & Ly. Dartrey to a breakfast given
by M^r. Dalton (a young Englishman) at y^e. Sauvenire,
it was a private party -- we went at 10 o'clock to y^e-
Room near the fountain -- where the Water-drinkers exer-
cise in rainy weather -- It was a sociable agreeable
party consisting of -- S^r. R: & L^y. Payne, -- M^r Macdonald,
Miʃs Mills, M^r. & M^rs. Wedderburne, S^r. G: & L^y. Webb, Comte
Rice, Baron & Baronne de Fraitture, & y^e. Chanoineʃse de Gimnick, --
& Comte Marechall, & M^r. Webb -- 18 in all -- after

---

      Spa
                                                         58
after breakfast some play'd at Cheʃs & others walked in
the romantic paths through y^e. Woods, carving out Names
on the Barks of Trees; w^ch. was mighty pretty, and
rurally sentimental, suited to y^e. place. Lady D, &
I dined téte a téte -- Lord D: with the Gentlemen at
the Club -- Lord & L^y- D. are admired & liked by all
for their general attention & amiable manners. --
M^r. Wedderburne invited the Party of the Morn^g. to drink
tea at Lubin & Annettes Cottage -- it was so dark before
we got there that it was neceʃsary to have Candles --
there were Ice's fruits &c &c. and Music playing all
y^e. time we were at Table; some difficulty was started
how we should return as no Carriage can ascend y^e-
Mountain -- however each Lady took y^e. Arm of a
Beau, had her Spa Cane,  -  Riding great Coat, & tied
her white Handkerchief round her  ------ Throat & proceeded
down on regular proceʃsion -- the Music playing before
all the way -- the Stars & one Lanthern lighting us.
By way of concluding the frolick we went into the
Rooms in the same order looking like strolling
Gipsies -- as y^e. Ladies had no Riding Habits under
their Great Coats. we staid much latter than usual
in the Rooms

Wednesday
SepOct^br. 2^d.
      Sir John & L^y. Webb gave a Breakfast at
Lubins Cottage, y^e. same party as yesterday
with the addition of Sir G: Paul, Col^l. Conway, & M^r.. &
M^rs. Needham, the weather was so warm that we
breakfasted under the Tent upon the Mountain --
After breakfast I walkd with L^y Webb, Sir G: Paul, &
Comte Marechall in the fields on the Mountain.
the rest amused themselves w^th. Cheʃs & other Games.
did not return home till dinner time. Sir George
Paul & M^r. & M^rs. Needham dined with us -- In the after-
noon several persons called. L^y. D. staid at home I went
w^th. Lord Dartrey for a short time to y^e. Rooms -- took leave of
Miʃs Asgill & the Needhams who go tomorrow. Miʃs A is very
pretty & has an elegant figure, seems very amiable, L^d- Wesport is most
                             deplorably in love with her.

---

      Spa 1776
59
Thursday
3^d. SOct^br-
      Lord Dartrey & I went to a Breakfast given
      by M^r.. Webb (L^y. D: having a slight Cold
remained at home) at the Tonnelet -- the same party
as Yesterday -- no pleasant walks or Wood, the water
of the Tonnelet is as pleasant as Champange, &
strongly mineral -- there are Hot, & Cold Baths, the former
are heated by fire. Lord D, & I quitted the company
as soon as breakfast was over & returned home
-- In the Eve^g we had Sir G. Paul & others --

Friday
Oct^br. 4^th-
      Lord Dartrey gave a Breakfast on y^e. Mountain
      the same party w^th. y^e addition of Miʃs Boughton^[71]
M^r. Bunney, & M^r. Hawkins Brown -- At dinner
we had M^r. H: Brown & Comte Marechall walked
from y^e. Mountain w^th. Lady Dartrey & me -- whilst
L^y- Dartrey went to dreʃs they sat w^th. me Comte
Maréchall read aloud some of the late Popes letters;
Afterwards I took a walk w^th- the Chanoineʃse & M^r-
H. Brown round y^e. Mountain -- L^y. Dartrey remained
at home to write letters, the weather uncommonly
fine. The Chanoineʃse Geminick is a very lively
sensible Woman, appears ab^t. 40 has a good air &
may be called a handsome Woman, is rather en bon
point, but walks well & actively. Baron Power
& Col^l. Conway dined w^th. us -- we had ab^t 26 or 7
People in the afternoon, many to take leave.
      Lord & Lady Dartrey & I went to the Redoute, came
home early.

Saturday
Oct^br. 5^th
      The worthy Col^l. Conway came w^th. Lord
      Dartrey to my bed Chamber door very
early in the Morn^g to bid me Adieu -- I hasten'd to
dreʃs myself & then went with Lord Dartrey to see
him, we found him at a Shop just going to set off, the
dear Old Man gave me a parting bleʃsing -- Lord Dartrey
                                                         told

---

                                                         60
told me he, Col^l. Conway;, was born in Ireland, that he had served
abroad many years w^th. great honor, & that he was a
most excellent Man -- w^th. many other particulars
relating to him I have not leisure to pen down --
M^r. Boyce breakfasted w^th. us -- S^r. R. Payne, Miʃs Mills,
M^r. Dalton, d&c, to bid again farewell.
L^y D—— & I remained at home all Mon^g. a long visit
fr^m. M^r H. Brown -- we went to y^e. Rooms in the
Eve^g- -- (the Boughton's, Webb's, M^r: H: Brown &c came
after Dinner)

Sunday
Oct^br. 6^th
      M^r. Boyce breakfasted w^th. us we then went
      to M^rs. Fisher's to prayers -- after w^ch. I walked
with Lord & L^y Dartrey M^rs. & Miʃs Boughton's M^rs. and
Miʃs Poulteney (who have been here but two or three
days) up the Mountains -- the day was misty (L^d- D——
dined out)
M^r. H: Brown came soon after L^y. D: & I had din'd
he staid the whole Eve^g; & to supper. He wrote verses
&c, & I gave him 10 minutes to write an Acrostic
on Lady Dartrey's name w^ch. he did within y^e. time
The lines are as follows --

Dear to her Friends, & to her Husband dear,
adorn'd w^th. ev'ry Art, yet most sincere,
Rov'd like some Angel from her Native Shore
To show us Virtues we can boast no more,
Rais'd to high rank w^th. brightest lushe shines
Ease & simplicity to breeding joins,
Youth she enjoys & pleasure she refines

Lady Dartrey was born at
Philadelphia in America, & by y^e.
Mothers side Grand Daughter to the
celebrated Quaker M^r. Penn.
her Christian Names are Philadelphia Hannah -- her Sur Name Fraeme --

He observed Milton's Paradise lost on y^e. table, w^ch.
he offered to read -- there was no refusing, & I was
in an agony lest I should get into one of my unfor-
tunate nervous fits of laughing, as indeed was D^r.
L^y D. both for herself & me, for M^r. H: Brown is one of the
worst stutterers I ever heard -- but our fears soon
subsided for, after the 5 or 6 first lines of y^e. Poem he
                                                         went on very

---

61
Spa
on with tolerable fluency, & convinced us that he
could read as if he well understood y^e. sublime Poem,
if the impediment of his speech could be removed --
Every one speaks in favor of M^r. H. Brown's character,
it is a great pity he has such singular awkwardneʃs
of manner & such nervous gestures when he laughs,
& dances, as to provoke risibility from those who
are not acquainted w^th. his sense & merits, & give
pain to those who are -- he is a plain Man and
has nothing outwards to recommend him; someone
said he was reckon'd an elegant Claʃsic Scholar -- M^r-
Glover was acquainted w^th: his Father, who was an
elegant Latin Poet.

Monday
Oct^br- 7^th-
      Mar^r H: Brown came after Breakfast whom I
      had to entertain for two hours as Lady D——
was engaged in her own Room & Lord Dartrey was out
his conversation was sensible & instructive, but
it certainly requires patience & attention to listen
to him.      Sir John & L^y. Webb, & M^r Webb & M^r.. Boyce^[72] dined
with us -- We went to the Rooms in y^e Eve^g.

Tuesday
Oct^br. 8^th-
      M^r: Boyce to Breakfast -- the Webb's & others
      call'd had another tête á tête w^th. M^r.. H. Brown
I was rather impatiently wishing him to depart
as I wanted to write, at length Lady D. relieved me
& took him to walk with her. -- M^rs & Miʃs Boughtons' &c
dined with us -- we all went to Tea in y^e Rooms &
staid rather late.

Wednesday
9^th. Oct^br-
      As it rained Lord Dartrey put off our
Journey, this being the day he had fix'td
for leaving Spa -- we went to the Rooms to meet y^e. Webbs
who are to accompany us to Bruʃsels. S^r. J;, Lady, & M^r. Webb,
& M^r Boyce dined with us -- In the afternoon we had M^r- H:
Brown, M^r. Grace, Baron & Baron̄eʃse Fraitture M^de. Gimnick, &c.
We went to the Rooms to Meet M^rs Poulteney &c --

---

                                                         10^th.. Oct^br-

---

                                                         62
Spa
Thursday
Oct^br. 10^th
1776
      The Morning again so wet that Lord Dartrey put off
      y^e. Journey -- M^r. H: Brown, Boyce &c visited
      us, & we went to the Room before dinner --
      after dinner we had the Webb's & otheres, then
We went to the Rooms -- from thence I went w^th. L^y. Webb --
to her Lodgings to supper -- Lord & Lady Dartrey took
M^r. Boyce home to sup with them -- I came home at
11 o'Clock -- (Comte Sarsfield drank tae at our Table
atin the Rooms he only came to Spa to day)

Friday
Oct^br. 11^th.
      Miʃs Boughton's came to bid us Adieu -- M^r.. H:
Brown waited, as he said, to hand me into y^e-
Coach for the last time, at 9 o'Clock, when we quitted
Spa. -- poor M^r. Boyce could not bear to part w^th. us &
therefore resolved to go with us as far as far as
Leige, & return in a few days to Spa as it was neceʃs-
ary for his health -- I expect a letter at Calais my
Dearest Mama -- excuse all blunders I often
write when my hair is dreʃsing w^th. y^e paper on my
knee &c &c

Friday
11 Oct^br
      Journal continued
      Lord & Lady Dartrey & myself left Spa w^th-
Regret at 9 o'Clock -- the Rain that had fallen made y^e..
Cascades very fine till we arrived at the little
Village of Taux,^[73] ab^t. 3 Miles & ½ from Spa, where
there are many Iron Forges -- stop'd at      the
territory of Stavelef^[74] -- from thence lost the beautiful
Mountains & quitteding the road leading to Aix la
Chapelle travelled some Miles over a large barren
Heath -- a long Hill led to it w^th. naked Mountains
on each side -- a melancholy contrast to the
lovely scenery we had left -- however 4 or 5 Miles
from Leige we had an extensive prospect over a
a prodigious fine Country, & we were charmed w^th-
the approach to Leige -- upon the Hills near y^e-
Town saw Vineyards, & large Hop Gardens -- they
inform'd us they made 32 Sorts of Beer. We lodge
at the Aigle Noir. As do S^r. John, Lady, & M^r. Webb --
                                                         Lord Dartrey
                                                         sent

---

63
      Leige
to M^r. Fitzsimon who resides much at Leige on ac^t-
of y^e- education of his Children (I believe we were
misinformed ab^t. his having only one) he came &
joined our party at Dinner -- we play'd at very low Farren
in the Eve^g.. Lord D: held y^e Bank & we were very
gay & cheerful.

Leige
Saturday
12 Oct^br-
      Before we went down to Breakfast M^r. Boyce
      read Prayers in Lord Dartrey's Room -- A
      Lady Cook, her Daugher, & a Miʃs Crosby who
reside in a Convent at Leige & are Protestants, came to
enjoy the satisfaction of joining on worship w^th persons
of their own persuasion. After prayers we joined our
party at Breakfast (viz. S^r. J., Lady & M^r Webb) & M^r-
Boyce) after w^ch. Lord & Lady Dartrey M^r. Webb & myself
set out to see some Churches -- 1^st: to the Cathedral, dedi-
cated to Saint Lambert, the entrance resembles that
of Canterbury,  ------ upon the Great Altar were 14 Silver Candle-
sticks very finely wrought, the highest 6 feet & ½ high,
& a beautiful large lamp hung before this Altar. The
Porch is curious Gothic artt --- chitecture adorned with numberleʃs
figures representing the Martyrdom of S^t. Lambert:
2^d. The Jesuits Church nothing here w^ch. attracted notice
but Rich Busts of Saints in Silver upon y^e. High Altar. --
M^r. Webb related some anecdotes of the Jesuits and
desired us to read the History of the Miʃsion of
Paraguay. 3^d- S^t Pauls, a very large Church, the
Screen before the High Altar is of Marble, it is
elegant & Simple; The Roof of the Church is painted
& is so pretty & light as to resemblye Gauze or Tafety -- one
tolerably painted Picture of bearing the Croʃs.
4^th. The Dominicains -- a large Noble Dome, & 7 very
pretty Chapels. 5^th. S^t. Jacques -- Gothic, & very richly
ornamented, it belongs to the Benedictine order
of Monks -- there are 5 neat & beautiful Chapels behind
the Great Altar -- fine painted Windows on w^ch. are
represented the History of S^t. Benoit -- The Roof is
                                                         light, &c &c
                                                         &

---

                                                         64
& there are some very large figures of Saints in Marble well
executed. We transcribed y^e. following lines under one ofon a Tomb over
themw^ch- hangs a picture of S^t. Bernoit dying w^th- a Pigeon coming down
      in a Glory^[75] --

De sa chambre Benoist au Ceil levant les yeux
Apparoit un Pigeon qui penetrait les Cience
Cest l'ombe de sa Sœur sous cette resemblance
qui va chercher la prix de sa grande innocence.

The reason of the number of Altars in y^e. Romish Churches
is for different Priests to officiate, & who generally
receive the Sacrament every day.
M^r Fitzsimon, Webb's, &c then went w^th. us to the English
Convent^[76] -- the Reverend Mother had rec^d. notice of
the intended Visit -- She came to y^e. Grate of the Parlour
& desired we would go round to the Stairs where
she rec^d us, attended by 30 Nuns whose faces were
covered by their Veils -- they ranged themselves on
each side & bowed as we paʃsed -- they then lifted
up their Veils -- We were shewn the whole Convent
w^ch. was remarkably neat, the Cells were similar
to each other, viz: a Small bed, small Oak Chest --
of Drawers, a Stool to Kneel on, a little Table upon
w^ch. were placed a Crucifix, an Hour Glaʃs, & a book.
over w^ch were hung a few wretched bad Prints.
The floors of Oak bright & slippery as Glaʃs, within
the Doors of the Cells there two pieces of quilted
Cloth -- w^ch. they walk or rather slide on that no
Noise may disturb y^e. silence w^ch. ought to reign --
or those who are beneath -- The Cells are 10 feet
long & 5 wide with a large Window at y^e. end w^ch is
neither fastened nor barred. There are many
neat Altars in different parts of y^e. Convent, orna-
mented with Flowers & Paintings, under one was
represented our Saviour lying in the Sepulchre --
many shabby prints hung round the Walls of the
Paʃsages in w^ch. are Lottery's for Souls on Purgatory,
                                                         which y^e-

---

65
Sat^ry Oct^br
12^th.           Leige
                             English Convent
      the Nuns draw out as they paʃs & utter a short
prayer -- one of the Nuns desired me to draw a ticket
out of the Box, w^ch. I complied with -- it was for those
who had never given Alms for the love of God. We
saw their work Room w^ch. is large & meanly furnished,
they shewed us beautiful artificial Flowers of
their making & paintings in Miniature also many
in Crayons & Oil. We saw Lord Stourton's Sister
who has been in this Convent ever since she pro-
feʃsed, w^ch. is 50 Years, she is well-bred in her man-
ner & appeared very chearful. One of the Nuns
gave us an account of their stile of living -- they
rise Summer & Winter at 4 o'Clock & spend two hours
in mental prayer in the Choir of the Chapel, then
they Breakfast, (except it is a fast. day when they do
not take any food till y^e. hour of dinner w^ch. is half
past 11 o'Clock) after Breakfast they sit in y^e. work-
Room, all together, till prayer time, after prayers
they dine in a large Room where there never is a fire --
after dinner a Nun sits in a Pulpit in y^e. dining
Room & reads to the rest -- after Supper a Nun reads
an hour & ½. They are not prohibited talking unleʃs
it is a strict fast day & then they have not, what they
call, that recreation : They are not allowed to visit
each other in their Cells without permiʃsion, nor may
they go to their Cells during the day but for an hour
when they dust them, -- the laborious part of the work
in the Convent is done by Servants. After dinner &
Supper they go into the Choir to Pray & Sing. (One
of the Nuns, whose name is Wright,^[77] play'd to us on
the Organ with taste & skill) -- After y^e. Prayers after
dinner they return to the work Room, they keep silent for
some time at their work & a Nun reads aloud, this is
an indulgence. They Sup at 6 & go to bed at 9 -- there
are not any fire-places in their Cells, there is only fire
kept in the work room, & that only in severe weather if
                                                         they

---

      Leige           Mem. Miʃs Wright                66
they are ill they are put in the Infirmary (in y^e. ChurchConvent)
The Abbeʃs of this Convent is stiled Reverend Mother.
She has a small fire place in her Cell, w^ch. is twice as
large as the others, therefore if she is ill she is not re-
mov'd to the Infirmary she shewed us a common
Rush bottom great Chair w^ch. she said she never in-
dulged herself to sit on unleʃs she was ill. -- We
saw their Apothecary's Shop w^ch. is a Room well
stored with Drugs, simple waters &c &c One Nun
makes up the chief of the medicines -- there are days
appointed for the poor to come, who have Clothes,
Medicines, & money given to them -- Many Convents
do the same therefore Nuns do not lead such use-
leʃs lives as is generally supposed. At this
Convent they converse more in English than French,
& in most respects not so strict as most others.
The prohibition of not profeʃsing under a certain
age does not extend here for we saw a Girl who was
not 16, in her year of probation dreʃs'd in the same
Manner as the Nuns, only her garments were White --
All their Bread is made in the House & they shew'd
us a Granary stacked with Corn. We saw a Nun who
had been married & lived ten years in y^e. World, her
Husband died 3 Years ago, she came here & profeʃsed.
There are a great many Pensioners, or young Ladies
boarded here for their education, we saw y^e. School
Room -- two young Nuns were teaching y^e. use of the
Globes -- the Bed Rooms of the Pensioners were very airy
& remarkably clean & neat. The Name of y^e. Reverend
Mother is Dennis^[78] -- she must have been extremely hand-
some -- her features are beautiful, & her countenance very
sweet -- her complexion pale & delicate -- her manners
gentle & elegant.      The Nuns were polite & chearful
& addreʃsed their conversation to y^e. Gentlemen & w^th. equal
ease as they did to the ladies. -- I believe we saw every part of

In y^t w^th- constant attendance on y^e Public &
frequent attendance on y^e Poor they do  ------  &c

---

67                Leige
of their House & Garden. Miʃs Wright is much accom-
plised, and draws & Paints as well as she plays --
she was educated here, when she had finished her
education her Father, (a rich Banker) sent for her
to England, & a young Gentleman wished to marry her --
but neither the endearment of Parents, the pleasures
of the World, nor a Lover, could get y^e. better of her
predilition for leading the life of a Nun, after some
time she gain'd her point, & came back to this Con-
vent & took y^e. Veil -- she is a well looking Woman.
Our Party proceeded from the CNunnery to M^r Fitz-
Simons Lodgings, there were 9 besides ourselves, in
all 16 -- many Irish & English Catholic's reside at
Leige -- tho' it happened to be a fast day & that there
was no butchers Meat -- the dinner was plentiful,
elegant, & exquisitely cooked. M^r Fitzimon had
prepared another dinner for Lord & L^y- Dartrey, &c
two days ago, but y^e. weather had obliged Lord D——
to send an excuse -- this had mortified the hospi-
table M^r Fitzsimon, as that was not a fast day --
&c &c. We left him abt 10 -- he came however
to attend us to our Hotel -- The Webbs & M^r. Boyce
sup'd w^th- us, -- Lady Webb sat an hour w^th. me in my bed-
chamber, -- had some interesting conversation, & she
gave me a general outline, & description of the dis-
position of the French w^ch.who she had been obliged to
aʃsociate with.

Sunday
Oct^br. 13^th
      Parted from M^r Boyce whom we left at
Leige to return to Spa, & from the Webb's
for a day, as Lord Dartrey was obliged on acc^t- of securing
Horses to set off before them.      Leige is situated on
the River Maes or Muse over w^ch. there are many
Bridges -- one in particular, we drove over under one
                                                         of

---

                                                         68
iof its Arches which was y^e. Street over the River. There
are a great many Churches & Monastries consequently
numerous Eccliasticks -- A large University, w^ch. is
celebrated for learning &c -- A great Manufactory for
Guns, & Steel Wares -- A very considerable trade is
carried on in Trais's,^[79] what we saw were fine, but y^e.
price extremely high, they have y^e. art of dying y^m
of various beautiful col --- ours, & also on stripes.
The City of Leige is delightfully situated, the sur-
rounding or contiguous Hills are picturesque --
the Town is populous, very large, dirty & Narrow
Streets, the Houses of an extroadinary height --
It is very richly endowed yet they told us there was
above 60,000 poor, -- the numberleʃs miserable
we saw in y^e. Streets was shocking. The Bishop of Leige is
the richest & most considerable Prince in Germany, he
has a great Revenue from gaming Tables at
Spa & other places. We saw Dogs in abundance
drawing such kind of Carts as Aʃsesthey do in England.
The Streets are lighted at Night by Lamps
hanging by Ropes in the Middle of y^e. Streets,
the Ropes being fasten'd to y^e: Houses on each
side: -- Bruʃsels, Lisle, and all considerable Towns
are lighted in the same Manner, so I have been
told is Paris -- it answers well as the Streets
have no convenient flag'd foot path but Kennels
at y^e. sides & people walk in y^e. middle of y^e-
Streets where the Carriages drive.

13^th-
Oct^br.
We left Leige at 10 o'Clock got to Ourai^[80] at
12, a post & ¼, (a post is 6 miles) at 2 got to
S^t. Trone,^[81] 1 post & ¼. at 4 to Tirelemont 2
Posts -- where we din'd -- Got to Louvain, 2 Posts --
at       Lodged at y^e. Sign of y^e. Ville de Cologne, sup'd
& went early to Bed.
                                                         Monday 14^th

---

69
      1776
Louvaine
Monday
Oct^br. 14^th.
      As soon as we had Breakfasted went to see
      Mon^r. Van Dormes^[82] Pictures, he is a painter,
      & excells in Fruit pieces -- One we thought
exquisitely painted; from Mon^r Dormes went to y^e
Church of the Augustine Monks, 2 Monks attended us
to the Saccristi^[83] & shewed us the Saint Sacrament
which they informed us had worked many surprising
Miracles -- it is set in Gold & covered with Glaʃs, one
of the Monks held it to our lips to Kiʃs -- they then
took us to the back of the high Altar, were two Priests
were Kneeling with lighted Torches -- one of y^e. Monks
opened a Door & undrew a Curtain w^ch. hung over a
large Diamond Croʃs, he brought it close to us to see
the Saint Sacrament w^ch. he said was really in the
Center of y^e. Croʃs w^ch. is two feet high most beauti-
fully & richly adorned with Diamonds, Rubies, Pearls,
& Emeralds -- it wasits wide in proportion to its height
& entirely covered with fine Jewels -- a Sun is
represented in y^e. Center, very rich, & ornamented
with Flowers, leaves, &c. in precious stones. the
donations made to this Church on account of its
being in poʃsesion of this miraculous Jewel having
y^e. real S^t. Sacrament inclosed in it are prodigous,
within the last 4 Years it has received forty thous-
sand florins.
This City was founded by Julius Cæsar -- the Town
is ill built -- looks very ancient, is situated in a
most fertile Country, its chief Trade Linnen -- there
are 27 Convents & 25 Monastries -- 40 Colleges, and
2 English Colledges -- the Unversity is esteemed the
first in the Netherlands.
Bruʃsels^[84]
We left Louvaine at 11 o'Clock at 2 got to Bruʃsels
Lord Dartrey went to the Hotel D'Hollande, after
Dinner I walked with Lady Dartrey to shops, saw
Silks, & Laces, dearer than they can be purchased in
London. In y^e. Eve^g. the Webb's call'd on us, soon after
                                                         their

---

                                                         70
      their arrival -- they lodge at another Hotel.
      D^r. L^d. D—— not quite well, went early to Bed --
Bruʃsels
Oct^br.

Tuesday
165^th. Oct^br.
      After we had Breakfasted, M^r. Wilkinson, whom
      we had met at Spa, came, & went w^th. Lord D——
& I to the Abbé de Coudenberg, Lord D. bought a
fine Sketch by Vandycke of our Saviour on y^e. Croʃs.
Went to Lady Webb, sat some time with her she accom-
panied me to our Hotel -- prevailed on L^d. D. to remain
another day at Bruʃsels. Lord D. not feeling well
Lady Dartrey would not leave him alone, but wished
me to  --- keep an engagement of going to y^e. Play -- at ½ --
past 5 S^r.. John & Lady Webb, her Brother, Cap^tn Salvin, & M^r-
Webb, came to tea, I went w^th. them to y^e. Theatre. --
Sir John did not remain w^th. us but returned to Lord
& Lady Dartrey. The Play House is larger & finer
than those in London -- the interior of an Oval form --
the Scenery most beautifully painted -- the Oches-
tra is said to  ------ have y^e. best performers in Europe --
a prodigious number of Musicians & various
instruments -- returned to our Hotel at 9 o'Clock --
Lord & L^y Dartrey kept y^e. Party to supper.

Wednesday
16^th Oct^br.
Bruʃsels
      Lady Webb came early this Morn^g -- Lord
& L^y. Dartrey & myself accompanied her
to her Brother Cap^tn. Salvin's Lodgings
where we all breakfasted -- afterwards  ------ the whole party
went to the Abbé de Coudenberg who was extremely
attentive & polite, he shewed us the Terrace & Garden
which overlooks the Park, -- the Abbé made Lord D:
a present of a small picture -- his private apartments
are fitted up with taste. From him we went to the
Maison de Ville, w^ch. is on a very large scale, there
are several fine apartments -- In y^e. grand Council
Chamber there are 3 pieces of highly wrought Bruʃsels
Tapestry, in y^e. 1^st. is represented Charles the 5^th-
                                                         giving his

---

16^th
Oct^br Bruʃsels
71
his Crown to his Son; 2^d. The Crowning of Charles
the 6^th-. 3^d. Philip the Good granting privileges.
There was another Piece of Tapestry y^e. Colours of w^ch-
were brilliant, the subject was the History of Clovis.
      This being the day before the great Annual Fair -- y^e-
people were making preparations, & many of the
outward Rooms & paʃsages of the Maison de Ville
were fitted up with Shops for various Kinds of
Merchandise -- We then went to the Tapestry
Manufactory, it is curious to see how they weave
it on the wrong side; the Picture of painted pat-
tern lying underneath -- they shewed us some
beautiful pieces w^ch. were finished at 2 Guineas
a Yard -- & some square pieces y^e. size of common
Screens from 7 to 16 guineas each -- from the
Manufactory proceeded to a large Shop of Articles
from India, & to a superb one of Bijouterie, every
thing extravagantly dear -- to M^r. Danauts a
great Bankers, saw his Cabinet of Pictures, a
choice collection -- wished to have had more time
to look at them, can only mention a few -- A Portrait
of a Mistreʃs of Francois y^e. 1st by Leonard de Vinci.^[85] --
S^t. Francis by Guido; a Sleeping Venus by Do. --
there were many by the most celebrated Masters of
the Flemish Schools -- I saw a small picture of
Popea Sabina exactly the same as my large one
^[86]at Eaton College y^e. provost, Barnard, showed me
one y^e. size of Mine a bad Copy -- they call it Jane Shore^[87]
M^r Danauts did not know y^e. painters name but
said it was by a very old Master.      In one of the
Squares we saw a fine Statue of Minerva holding
the Busts of the Emperor & Empreʃs it stands
on a Fountain & was given by Lord Aylesbury.^[88]
We all dined w^th- S^r. John & Lady Webb, play'd
at Farron after dinner, at 9 o'Clock we all adjourn'd
to Lord Dartrey's Hotel to supper -- parted at 11 o'Clock in a melan-
choly mood as we were to seperate tomorrow.
                                                         17^th. Oct^br-

---

Thursday
Oct^br. 17^th
1776
      Left Bruʃsels at 9 o'Clock; 3 posts to Alost, at
      ½ past 12, where we din'd at the Trois Rois --
went again to look at the fine Picture of S^t.. Rock by
Rubens -- 1 Post & ½ to Quaduct; to Gand (or Ghent) 1 Post,
got there by 5 o'Clock -- to the Hotel S^t- Sebastian (Buʃso's)
An acquaintance of Lord Dartreys being at y^e. Hotel he
introduced her to Lady Dartrey her Name Loten, after
Tea she went with us to the Play -- a good Theatre -- we
saw represented Le Roi, et la Fermier, and la Papile.
We supped at 9, M^rs Loten came for an hour after
supper.

Friday
18^th. Oct^br
Ghent --
      I got up very early & walk'd out, After
      Breakfast we saw the Ducheʃs of Kinston --
      alias Lady Hervey, she came ab^t. 1 in the Morn^g --
to our Hotel from Calais where she has been ever since
her trial -- she is going to Vienna -- afterwards to Rome,
to paʃs the Winter, then intends returning to Calais
in the Spring where she has taken a House. M^r-
Popham was with her, & her Maids of Honor, who
were dreʃsed in green Staff Gowns, & black Staff bibs --
& aprons, white linnen Caps, & no hats or bonnets.
      We left Gand -- stop'd at Bot Ghent to change
Horses, din'd at Vive S^t. Eloy -- drank tea & sup'd
early at Courtray at L'Hotel Damier -- Lord D.
pleased w^th, y^e, people of y^e. House they were very
civil -- he paid only 2, 4^d english per head for supper,
7 & 7 desert -- Lord D, was by no means well.

Saturday
19^th Oct^br.
      Lord Dartrey much better -- we left Courtray
      at 10 o'Clock -- changed Horses at Menim --
dined at Lisle at the Hotel de Bourbon a Noble Inn
in la Grande Place -- the apartments well furnished --
rather should say grandly -- two large Crimson quilted
Sattin bed. Chairs, Cabriolet Shape, crimson Velvet w^th-
white & Gold frames, The Table covered with Crimson 'Velvet,
                                                         and

---

73
and edged with broad Gold fringe with 4 large Taʃsels of
Gold, one  --- at each corner, Bell ropes, &c, y^e. same --
the Room hung with tolerable Tapestry & 2 very large
pier looking Glaʃses.      We went to the Capuchins
Church where we saw a fine Picture by Rubens over
the Great Altar -- the descent from the Croʃs; on the
left hand another fine picture, by y^e. same Master, of
the Virgin or Mother Mary, Child & a  --- Capuchin, the Child is
very beautiful! After seeing the Church of the --
Capuchins, went to that of the Recollects, A fine
Picture by Vandycke over the Great Altar; the
subject the Crucifixion, the head of Christ, the headfigure
of S^t. John, and the Virgin are charming & on the right
is a Picture of S^t. Anthony, well painted, on the left
the Aʃsinicon of the Virgin Mary. There are many good
Pictures on each side of the church by Arnolde
Vuez. One of the Recollects took us into the Sacristi
(another Gentleman who was in the Church went w^th-
us,) he shewed us some Gold Embroidery upon
Red Velvet, and some very fine Tapestry in y^e-
form of a Medallion for the high Altar, we saw
a great quantity of fine Silver Ornaments, among
the Rest a large Croʃs in the middle of w^ch. were
inclosed Relic's of S^t. Anthony, it was decorated
with mostuch taste, w^th. diamonds Croʃses, set  ------ and flowers
wrought in Silver, &c, It was so maʃsy and
heavy I could not lift it up from y^e. place on
w^ch. it stood. We saw three Pilgrims in the
Church who were arrived from Gand (or Ghent)
to pay offerings & make prayers to S^t Mark,
as there are Relicks of him in it, for the recovery
of some persons who were too ill to come -- Pilgrims
are paid for these errands, & have a Banner given
them to prove they have faithfully fulfilled y^r-
Commiʃsion. Lady Dartrey & I bought some
                                                         of --

---

                                                         74
^[89]

---

75
of these Banners of an Old Woman for a few Liards
she distributed y^m. to the Pilgrims. Went to a
Booksellers; Shops of several kinds &c --
After dinner L^y. D. & I again went to the Shops --
M^rs. Loten came for an hour in the Eve^g.. Lord
Dartrey much better.

Sunday
Oct^br 20^th
Lisle
      We found this Grand Hotel very dirty --
      there are no Women Servants -- Lord D——
found the Wines bad -- eatables extravagant &
very indifferent. The Valet de Place, or Louage,
a civil, will bred, & well informed Man. NB.
the Hotel Royal is said to be a better house for
Comfort & accomodation -- it is alson on the Grand
Place, w^ch- is a Noble Square surrounded by very
handsome buildings exactly of y^e. same height.
The Corps de Garde & the Charge are Rich looking
Edificis -- this City is call'd pettit Paris -- I
will bring a book w^ch. gives a description of it.
There are at present five Regiments of Soldiers
who mount Guard in the Grand Place every day; --
Wednesday & Saturday excepted, when y^e. Market is
held -- This Morning we saw ab^t. Nine thousand
Men drawn up, -- French & Austrians, it was a very
grand spectacle -- the person who directed their
Movements -- (I 'dont know his rank) -- appeared
above 7 feet high & uncommonly handsome, an
elegant figure, w^th. a martial Mien -- he held a tall dark cold
staff in his hand w^ch. had a silver ball on the
top -- he was dreʃs'd in Blue.
Left Lisle at 10 o'Clock, two posts to la Waquet
where y^e. Horses were chang'd, & again at Bethune
                                                         where we

---

Oct^br. 20^th-
                                                         76
we dined there at a miserable unclean house, the one
we were at going to Spa being shut up on account of
a Roberry committed there: whilst dinner was pre-
paring Lord & Lady Dartrey & I went to see the
Church -- The Windows of which are all of fine old
painted Glaʃs in high preservation -- Some Priests
were catechising Children -- there were a great number,
mostly Girls -- there was 4 Sets.
      From Bethune to Lilliers is a post & ½ -- to Aire
1 Post -- Lord Dartrey went to the House á la Poste
where every thing was clean & the people very civil,
The Supper w^ch. was excellent was only 3 livers
per head. Here we Met the Marquis de Tangy
whom we had seen in the Church at Lisle, Lord
& L^y. Dartrey invited him to Tea & Supper, he
appears much of y^e. Gentleman & his conversation
very sensible -- he is an Italian & is going to see
England; he enquired if we were acquainted w^th-
Lord Balgonie, who is a friend he form'd a great
intimacy with in Italy. He shewed us a travelling
Case w^ch. is uncommonly convenient, & in smaller com-
paʃs then could be imagined contains articles of
of neceʃsity & luxury -- 2 Silver plates, forks, Spoons,
Cups, Coffee pot, &c. & dreʃsing things &c. &c. &c. & his
Jewels, w^ch. with Antiques are very valuable, I
believe Money was also in this Case -- a rich booty
for a Robber.

Monday
21^st.Oct^br.
      After Breakfast left Aire, changed horses
      at S^t Omers, again a la Recouʃse, here
we had some good cold Bacon & bread, 'twas only a
Cottage with a Mud floors, we were first put in a Room
without a fire as the best room was occupied by
company, who however very politely came soon
to us & requested we would sit with them w^ch. we did
                                                         They

---

77
21^st
Oct^br.
      they appeared to be persons of fashion, the party
      consisted of -- Two very old looking Gentleman,
(who seem'd characters) a pretty French Woman, their
Niece, her Husband, rather singular looking, & the pretty
French Women's Brother, who is an Officer, an affected
Young Man but exceedingly polite, he shewed us his own
Carriage w^ch. was elegant, & his Horses w^ch. were fine ones.
The two old Gentlemen always travel w^th. 3 large
handsome Grey-hounds, an English Pointer, a
Spaniel, & a pretty small Dog. This party were on
their way to Paris.
We changed Horses at Ardres where Women har-
neʃs'd and put the Horses to y^e. Carriages. Ardes is
the Place where Henry y^e 8 of England & Francis y^e. 1^st-
met in 1520 -- We arrived by tea time at Calais --
the Marquis de Tagy was already there and again
was invited by L^d. & L^y Dartrey to Tea & Supper.
Captain Osborne waited on Lord Dartrey to inform
him that he was engaged to convey the Comte de
Noālles, Embaʃsador from France, to England, but
that he could return the following night. The
Captain has y^e. air & manners of a true English Sea-
Man: -- He told us that he was taken Prisoner by the
French during the last War & was confined in a Dungeon
at Dunkirk 3 Months, after that 3 Months more
at Calais where he never saw the light, & had Straw
only one Week to lay upon -- An English Sailor, a
French Deserter, & himself broke out of their
Prison during the Night, in leʃs than a quarter
of an hour they were pursued & were obliged to
fling themselves over one of the Walls of the
Ramparts w^ch. was an immense height, they
                                                         were

---

                                                         78
were senseleʃs for some time & when they recovered
found they were plunged in a Moraʃs, they extricated
themselves & were obliged to climb a Wall almost
as high as the one they had thrown themselves from.
after many difficulties they got to the Harbour,
obtain' --- d a Boat & row'd to Deal where they sold her
for 10 Pounds. The French deserter was to have
been Shot the day after they escaped. Cap^t Osborne
also related that when he was 19 he was preʃsed
for a Sailor & when the Ship was half a Mile from
Land he flung himself Over-board & swam to y^e-
Shore, he was Shot at, & 3 times he was in danger
of his life.

Tuesday
22^d..Oct^br.
Calais.
Deʃsiens Hotel
      The Marquis de Tangy sat w^th. us after
      Breakfast -- We walked to Shops, bought
      Gold Thread at 10^s. P^r. Ounce -- the Marquis
dined with us & went w^th L^d: & L^y Dartrey & me to
the Play House at y^e. bottom of the Garden of y^e.——
Hotel -- a pretty Theatre, Actors very indifferent as
also the Musicians -- returnd at 8 -- Marquis de Tangy
sup'd with us

Wednesday
23^d..Oct^br.
      At 6 o'Clock this Morning One of the
      Waiters informed us Cap^tn. Osborne was
return'd & that y^e. Wind was fair -- We embarked in
the Resolution between 9 & 10 o'Clock, & had a
fine Paʃsage of 7 hours -- Marquis de Tangy set off
at y^e. same time in Cap^tn. Baxters Veʃsel, and S^r W^m.
Lynch our late Minister at Turin in another. We
sup'd & slept at the City of London Inn at Dover, as
did M. de Tangy -- the House kept by M^r. Payne --
people civil, every thing clean.
                                                         Thursday

---

79
Thursday
24^th.Oct^br
1776
      We left Dover at 10 o'Clock din'd at Sitten-
burn^[90] at the Post House, got to Rochester
at y^e. Crown in the Eve^g. M: de Tangy drank tea and
sup'd with us.

Friday
25^th. Oct^br.
      Left Rochester at 9 o'Clock, stop'd at Shooter's
      Hill^[91] -- had some Cold meat, saw the fine new
Rooms -- The Weather too Cloudy to see the beautiful
view -- The Marquis de Tangy parted from us in Bridge- 
Street -- my heart felt y^e. separation from Lord &
Lady Dartrey -- it will always retain a most
grateful sense of all their goodneʃs towards me.
      My Dearest Mama was waiting dinner for me --
I had seen no Woman equally beautiful during
My Absence.

---

á Madame Madame La Marquise de Trotti née Baronne
de Notthafft, á Bonne Sur La Rheine.

---

Pour envoyer á Milady Webb Chez Monsieur VandenClooster^[92]
Banquier à Bruʃselles.

---

---

                                                         80
      Memorandums --
*Our God & Soldiers we alike adore
first in the Hour of Danger & no more,
The Danger past, both are alike requited
Our God's neglected & our Soldiers slighted

---

*from a
Window at
y^e. Aigle Noir
at Leige

Inscription on the Pouhon at Spa
Pierre 1^er par sa propre Grace despot de toutes
les Russies.

---

The Marquise de Trotti told us (at Spa) that the
famous Singer Grabriellia is daughter to the Cook
of the Marquis de Gabrillis, brother in law to her Husband --
(the Marquis de Trotti an Italian) that the Mar-
quise de Gabriella stood Godmother to the Child &
gave her the name of Gabriella.

---

Frederick King of Pruʃsia allowed his Queen so small
an income & so few attendants that she wrote to him
to make complaints (for tho' he did not live w^th. her
they corresponded) he replied in a sharp angry manner
& told her she might work to increase her income --
The Queen immediately began & embroidered a --
Waistcoat w^ch. when finished she sent to y^e King w^th-
a respectfully worded letter, informing him that
She obeyed his commands but could not offer y^e. first
Work she had done for sale to any other person than
his Majesty, & she doubted not but his generosity
w^d. induce him to send her the full value. The King
was so much struck by the Queens sensible man-
ner of acting, & good temper in bearing w^th. his harshneʃs
that he doubled her allowance & ordered her a --- t
Number of attendants as her situation required

---

Charles quint naquit L'an 1500. Mourut 1558. il se retira
1555. --

---

81
A Young Irish Gentleman of fortune was permitted
by his father to visit London, there he became acquainted
with an amiable young Lady w^th. whom he becamefell in
love -- fearful his Father would not give his consent, he
married her without his knowledge, he returned to
Ireland & could no obtain forgiveneʃs -- His father
presented a Pistol at his head & forced him to pro-
mise to marry another Lady of his choosing, the
Son obeyed and was married, as soon as the cere-
mony was over, he retired and Shot himself --
His Widows happened to meet, became attached,
Retired from society, & are living together.

---

---

                                                         82
Written by a Lady -- given me by Princess Daskaw
                                                         Spa Oct^br- 1776

---

^[93]Thou whom wandring fancy leads,
Near this gloom of lonely Shades
Come (for thou hast nought to fear)
Draw thee nigh and lend thy Ear.
                             2
If thy soul ambition fires,
Wayward hopes and rude desires
Motives selfish insincere
Go thy ways -- for peace is here.
                             3
If thou sigh'st for wordly store,
And thy bosom beats for more
If thy heart pale envy glows,
Think not here to find repose.
                             4
If thy heart is not sincere
If one ungentle thought is there,
One rude wish one vice begot,
Beat thy breast and mourn thy lot.
                             5
Here the dreary Willow grows;
Here the weeping streamlet flows,
How could these thy fancy quell
Wayward Stranger fare thee well.
                             6
But if e'er thy bosom knows
What delight from virtue flows;
What the bliss from silence springs,
What repose contentment brings:
                             7
If thy soul is all serene
Free from envy free from Spleen,
                                                         /Free from

---

83
Free from pride and guilty fear
Gentle Stranger draw thee near.
                             8
Merit clad with simple Weeds
Hast thou mark'd how sore he bleeds
Pilgrim like how sad he goes:
Thro' this dreary scene of woes?
                             9
Hast thou answer'd misry's cry
Dry'd his cheek and wiped his Eye?
Sooth'd his soul when passions move!
Bath'd the wounds of bleeding love?
                             10
Canst thou relish artless youth,
Lonely peace and simple truth,
Pity mild with streaming Eye,
Rural nymph simplicity.
                             11
When dejected worth was low,
Sunk in undeserved woe,
Has thy bosom heard the Sigh?
Has thy tear bedewd thine eye.
                             12
Canst thou relish Cypres Vales?
Cheerless Grotto's, lonely dales,
Mourning streams and Midnight glooms
Where the Cherub Hope ne'er comes.
                             13
Lonely Pilgrim bend thy Knee
Drop thy staff and follow me,
Sweet and soft is virtues toil
Here at least repose a while.

---

---

^[94]
Sunday Eve^g. Spa 6 Oct^br. 1776 Dots 5 given



      Emperor Charlemagne

                             Copper Gilt

                             Copper

                             Pierre de Gris^[95]

      M^r. G—— Penns Oc^br- 1776. Fountain in y^e Grand Place Aix La Chapelle^[96]

---

^[97]

---

^[98]

---

^[99]